Wash and pat dry the chicken pieces. In a large bowl combine yogurt, ginger paste, garlic paste, turmeric, red chili powder, coriander powder, garam masala, salt and lemon juice. Add the chicken pieces and rub the marinade thoroughly into and under the skin where possible. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, preferably 3–4 hours or overnight for best flavor.

Spice paste (Calicut-style masala)

Roast whole spices

In a small dry skillet over medium heat, toast black peppercorns, coriander seeds, cumin seeds and fennel seeds for 1–2 minutes until fragrant. Remove and let cool slightly.

Blend masala

In a blender add the toasted spices, shallots, grated coconut, green chilies, curry leaves, grated ginger and minced garlic. Add 2 tablespoons water and blend to a coarse smooth paste (use a little more water if needed). The paste should be slightly coarse, not watery.

Adjust seasoning

Taste a small pinch of the paste (optional) and, if needed, add a pinch of salt. Set the spice paste aside.

Cooking

Heat oil and temper

Heat coconut oil in a large heavy-bottomed skillet or kadai over medium heat. Add mustard seeds and let them pop. Add fenugreek (if using), cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and cloves and sauté for 20–30 seconds until aromatic.

Sauté onions and tomatoes

Add the thinly sliced onion and sauté for 5–6 minutes until soft and translucent with some light browning. Add chopped tomato and cook 2–3 minutes until softened.

Cook spice paste

Add the prepared Calicut-style spice paste to the pan. Sauté the paste with the onions and whole spices on medium-low heat for 5–7 minutes, stirring frequently, until the raw smell disappears and oil begins to separate slightly from the masala.

Add marinated chicken

Add the marinated chicken pieces to the pan, stirring to coat them evenly with the masala. Sear the chicken for 4–5 minutes on medium-high heat to get light browning.

Simmer

Pour in 1/4 cup water, add additional curry leaves and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Reduce heat to low, cover the pan partially and simmer gently for 20–25 minutes, turning the chicken once halfway, until the chicken is cooked through (internal temperature about 75°C / 165°F) and the sauce thickens. If the pan becomes too dry, add 1–2 tablespoons water as needed.

Crisp up (optional)

For a roast-style finish, remove the lid and increase heat to medium-high. Let the liquid reduce and let the chicken brown further for 3–5 minutes, stirring occasionally so it doesn’t burn. This will give a drier, slightly charred exterior typical of Calicut chicken roast.

Finish and garnish

Turn off heat. Sprinkle chopped fresh cilantro over the chicken and gently mix. Adjust salt to taste. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving.