Cod Brandade Recipe

Rinse the salt cod under cold running water to remove surface salt. Place the cod in a large bowl and cover with cold water (about 2 liters). Refrigerate and soak for 24–36 hours, changing the water 2–3 times (every 8–12 hours). Shorter soak (24 hrs) yields a slightly saltier result; longer soak mellows it further.

After soaking, taste a small flake for saltiness. Drain and pat the cod dry with paper towels. Remove any skin and bones if present. Break cod into large chunks for cooking.

Place the peeled, cubed potatoes into a medium saucepan and cover with cold water by 2 cm. Add a pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife, about 12–15 minutes. Drain and set aside; reserve a small cup (about 60 ml) of the potato cooking water.

While potatoes cook, put the drained cod chunks into a separate skillet or wide sauté pan. Add the bay leaf and just enough whole milk to barely cover the fish (about 100–150 ml). Warm gently over low heat until the cod is opaque and flakes easily, 6–8 minutes; do not boil. Remove cod from milk with a slotted spoon, reserving the milk. Discard the bay leaf. Flake cod into large flakes and set aside.

Flavor oil

In a small saucepan over low heat, warm the olive oil with the garlic cloves whole and uncrushed until fragrant but not browned, about 5 minutes. Remove the garlic and discard or reserve for another use. Keep the warm oil.

In a mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle (or using a wooden spoon), combine the drained, hot potatoes and the flaked cod. Mash together gently to begin combining — you want some smoothness but leave a little texture (use a ricer for a silkier brandade).

Begin to emulsify by adding the warm olive oil in a slow, steady stream while beating/mashing the potato-cod mixture. If using a mixer, run on low. Alternate with small additions of the reserved warm milk and then the heavy cream, until you reach a creamy, spreadable consistency. You may not need all the milk/cream; add gradually. If the mixture seems dry, add a spoonful of the reserved potato cooking water.

Season with freshly ground black pepper, a pinch of nutmeg (if using), and taste carefully for salt. Because salt cod retains some salt, add sea salt sparingly or not at all depending on taste. If desired, stir in the optional lemon juice to brighten the flavor.

Transfer the brandade to a shallow ovenproof dish (individual ramekins or a single gratin dish). Smooth the top with a spatula. If making a gratin, mix breadcrumbs with the 10 ml olive oil and sprinkle evenly over the top.

To serve cold or at room temperature: chill in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, then bring to room temperature before serving. To serve warm/gratin: place under a hot broiler or in a 220°C (425°F) oven until the top is golden and bubbling, about 5–8 minutes. Watch closely to avoid burning.

Garnish with chopped fresh parsley and an extra drizzle of olive oil. Serve with toasted bread, crostini, boiled vegetables, or roasted peppers.