If using napa cabbage, finely chop and sprinkle with 1/2 tsp salt. Let sit 10 minutes, then squeeze out as much liquid as possible using a clean towel or your hands. This concentrates flavor and prevents soggy filling.

Make filling (pork or vegetarian)

Pork filling

In a bowl combine 1 cup ground pork, the squeezed chopped cabbage, 3 tbsp sliced scallions, 1 tsp grated ginger, 1 tsp minced garlic, 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tsp sesame oil, 1 tsp mirin, 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp white pepper. Mix thoroughly with a spoon or by hand until the mixture becomes slightly sticky—about 1–2 minutes. This helps the filling bind when cooked.

Vegetarian filling

For the vegetarian option, combine 1 cup crumbled firm tofu, 1/2 cup finely chopped shiitake mushrooms, the squeezed chopped cabbage, 3 tbsp sliced scallions, 1 tsp grated ginger, 1 tsp minced garlic, 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tsp sesame oil, 1 tsp mirin, 1/2 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp white pepper. Mix well and press lightly to combine. If mixture seems wet, squeeze a little more liquid out of the tofu/cabbage or add 1 tbsp panko to absorb excess moisture.

Assemble gyoza

Set out wrappers on a dry clean surface. Keep covered with a damp towel to prevent drying. Place about 1 rounded teaspoon (roughly 10–12 g) of filling in center of each wrapper; adjust so wrappers are not overfilled.

Lightly moisten wrapper edge with a dab of water (use the 2 tsp water). Fold wrapper in half over filling to form a half-moon and press center to seal. Create 3–4 small pleats on one side pressing each pleat to the sealed opposite edge so the dumpling holds a flat bottom for frying. Repeat until all wrappers are filled.

If not cooking immediately, arrange gyoza on a parchment-lined tray without touching and refrigerate up to 2 hours or freeze in a single layer for 30–60 minutes then transfer to a bag.

Pan-fry (potsticker) method

Heat a large nonstick or well-seasoned skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1–2 tbsp vegetable oil and swirl to coat the bottom.

Arrange gyoza in the skillet flat-side down in a single layer, leaving a little space between each. Fry 2–3 minutes until the bottoms are golden brown and crisp.

Carefully pour 1/2 cup water into the pan (watch for steam and splatter), quickly cover with a tight-fitting lid and reduce heat to medium. Steam for 5–6 minutes until the wrappers are tender and filling is cooked through. For pork, ensure internal temperature reaches 71°C (160°F).

Remove lid and continue cooking 1–2 minutes to evaporate remaining water and re-crisp the bottoms. Transfer gyoza to a serving plate; crisp side up.

Make ponzu dipping sauce & garnish

In a small bowl combine 1/2 cup ponzu (or 3 tbsp soy + 1 tbsp citrus juice + 2 tsp water if making quick substitute), 1 tsp rice vinegar, 1/2 tsp sesame oil and optional 1/2 tsp chili oil. Taste and adjust acidity or salt as needed.

Stir in 2 tbsp thinly sliced scallions and sprinkle 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds on top. Serve sauce alongside hot gyoza.

To serve

Arrange 6 gyoza per serving on a warm plate with a small dish of ponzu. Garnish with extra scallions. Serve immediately so bottoms stay crisp.