Khao – Soi (northern Style Curry) Recipe

Toast and prepare aromatics

Toast cumin and coriander seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 1–2 minutes. Let cool. Rehydrate dried red chilies in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain. Roughly chop rehydrated chilies, fresh chili (if using), shallots, garlic, galangal, ginger, lemongrass, and coriander root so they are easy to process.

In a small skillet, add 1 tsp neutral oil and briefly sauté the chopped shallots, garlic, galangal, ginger, lemongrass and drained chilies over medium heat for 2–3 minutes to mellow rawness (don't brown). Allow to cool slightly.

Using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, grind the toasted seeds to a fine powder. Combine the seeds with the sautéed aromatics, turmeric powder, shrimp paste (if using), salt and 1 tsp oil. Blend or pound until a smooth paste forms. You should have roughly 6 tablespoons of paste. Store covered in the refrigerator if not using immediately.

Heat 2 tablespoons neutral oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add 4–6 tablespoons of the prepared khao soi paste and sauté, stirring, for 2–3 minutes until fragrant and the oil begins to separate from the paste.

Add the bone-in chicken thighs/legs to the pot and stir to coat well with the paste. Sear for 2 minutes per side to pick up color (optional).

Pour in 1,600 ml water or chicken stock and bring to a gentle boil. Skim any foam that rises. Reduce heat to low, partially cover, and simmer for 25–30 minutes, or until the chicken is tender and nearly falling off the bone.

Remove the chicken to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, debone and shred or cut into bite-sized pieces; return the meat to the pot (discard bones) and bring the broth back to a gentle simmer.

Stir in 400 ml coconut milk, 1 tablespoon palm sugar, 2 tablespoons fish sauce and 1 tablespoon light soy sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning — add more fish sauce for saltiness, more sugar for sweetness, or a splash of lime when serving for brightness. Keep broth hot but not boiling to prevent coconut milk from splitting.

If you don't have ready crispy noodles, heat about 300–500 ml vegetable oil in a heavy skillet to 190°C (375°F) or medium-high heat. Take a small handful (about 10–15 g) of fresh egg noodles and fry briefly (10–20 seconds) until golden and crisp. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate. Fry remaining small batches and keep crisp. Alternatively use store-bought fried egg noodles.

Bring a separate pot of water to a boil. Blanch fresh egg noodles for 30–60 seconds until just tender (follow package if fresh dried: typically 2–3 minutes). Drain well.

Warm bowls: place a portion of blanched egg noodles (about 100 g per serving) into each bowl. Ladle 350–400 ml of hot curry broth with pieces of shredded chicken over the noodles.

Top each bowl with a generous handful of shredded cabbage, a spoonful of chopped pickled mustard greens, thinly sliced red onion, a small handful of crispy fried noodles, chopped cilantro and a sprinkle of sliced scallions if using.

Serve immediately with lime wedges and optional chili oil on the side for diners to add to taste.