In a large bowl, toss the wings with kosher salt, black pepper and baking powder until evenly coated. The baking powder helps the skin crisp as it bakes.

Arrange wings in a single layer on the wire rack. Drizzle or spray with neutral oil to help browning.

Roast in the preheated oven for 35–45 minutes, turning once halfway through, until skin is deep golden and crisp and internal temperature registers 165°F (74°C). If you want extra crispness, broil for 2–3 minutes at the end watching closely so they do not burn.

Plain sauce / finish

Make the plain finish

While wings roast, melt the butter in a small saucepan or microwave-safe bowl. Stir in lemon juice and minced garlic. Keep warm. When wings are done, transfer to a large bowl, pour the butter-lemon mixture over them and toss gently to coat. Sprinkle chopped parsley if using and serve immediately with lime wedges and dressing.

Jerk marinade / sauce

Make jerk marinade

Combine chopped scallions, thyme, allspice, ground ginger, cinnamon, brown sugar, diced scotch bonnet (start with half, adjust to heat preference), soy sauce, lime juice, olive oil, minced garlic, salt and black pepper in a blender or food processor. Puree until relatively smooth, scraping down sides as needed.

If using the wings as a marinated style: reserve 2/3 of the puree for basting and toss the wings with the remaining 1/3 to coat. Marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to 2 hours (longer for deeper flavor). Remove from fridge 20 minutes before cooking to come toward room temperature. Roast as directed in the 'For the wings (common base)' section, basting with reserved jerk sauce in the last 10–12 minutes of cooking.

If using as a post-cook sauce: simmer the puree in a small saucepan over medium-low heat 4–6 minutes until slightly reduced. Toss roasted wings in warmed sauce until evenly coated and serve.

Suya seasoning / coating

Make suya coating

In a small bowl combine finely ground peanuts, suya spice (or cayenne + smoked paprika), ground ginger, garlic powder, onion powder and salt. Stir in 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to make a loose paste that will stick to the wings.

For suya-style wings, either: a) toss raw wings with a light sprinkle of salt and pepper, then press the peanut-spice mixture onto the wings to coat. Let rest 20–30 minutes to adhere, then roast according to the common base directions (do not baste). Or b) roast wings plain, then toss hot wings in the peanut-spice mixture so it adheres to the surface (this gives a slightly crunchier, toasted finish).

If pressed onto raw wings before roasting, the peanut crust will toast as the wings cook; monitor in the last 5 minutes so the peanut mix does not burn.

Serving

Serve wings immediately while hot. Offer plain (buttered lemon-garlic), jerk (marinated or sauced), and suya (peanut-spiced) on separate platters so diners can choose. Provide lime wedges and dipping sauce on the side.