Braised Heirloom Veal Ragout Recipe

Prepare and season veal

Pat the veal pieces dry with paper towels. Season evenly with 1 tsp of the salt and 1/4 tsp of the black pepper.

In a wide, heavy-bottomed sauté pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add half the olive oil. When shimmering, add the diced pancetta and render for 3–4 minutes until lightly browned and fat has rendered. Transfer pancetta to a bowl and reserve.

Increase heat to high. Add the veal in a single layer (work in batches if necessary to avoid crowding). Sear undisturbed 2–3 minutes per side until well browned. Transfer seared veal to the bowl with pancetta.

Deglaze the hot pan with the white wine, scraping up browned bits with a wooden spoon. Let the wine reduce until nearly evaporated, about 2 minutes.

Return the pancetta and veal to the pot and add the stock. The liquid should come about halfway up the meat; add a little more stock or water if necessary.

Reduce heat to medium. In the same pan (with rendered fat), add 1 tbsp butter and the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil if pan looks dry. Add the diced onion, carrot and celery (mirepoix). Sweat gently for 6–8 minutes until softened and beginning to color but not brown.

Stir in the minced garlic and tomato paste and cook 1–2 minutes until fragrant and the tomato paste darkens slightly.

If you prefer the mirepoix to be incorporated into the ragout rather than removed, add the softened vegetables and tomato mixture back into the pot with the veal and stock. If large bits developed on the pan, deglaze with a tablespoon of stock and add that as well.

Add the thyme sprigs, chopped rosemary, bay leaf, remaining 1/4 tsp salt (reserve rest for adjustment), 1/4 tsp black pepper, and crushed red pepper flakes (if using) to the pot. Stir to distribute.

Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to low so the surface barely bubbles. Partially cover the pot with a lid placed slightly ajar. Braise gently for 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes, until veal is tender and the sauce has reduced and concentrated. Stir once every 20 minutes, spooning pan juices over the meat.

About 20–25 minutes before the end of braising (when the veal is nearly tender), add the sliced heirloom carrots and diced root vegetables to the pot so they can finish cooking in the ragout without becoming mushy.

Five minutes after adding the roots, stir in the chopped heirloom tomatoes (or crushed canned tomatoes). Continue to simmer so the tomatoes break down and integrate into the sauce.

If using frozen peas, stir them in during the last 3 minutes of cooking just to heat through and retain color.

When the veal is fork-tender and the vegetables are cooked, remove the pot from heat. Discard thyme stems and bay leaf. If the sauce is too thin, place the pot over medium-high heat and reduce briefly until it coats the back of a spoon.

For a silkier, slightly enriched finish, stir in the heavy cream or crème fraîche and the cold 1 tsp of butter off heat, swirling to emulsify. Taste and adjust seasoning with remaining salt as needed.

Stir in the reserved rendered pancetta and finish with chopped parsley and lemon zest if using. Let the ragout rest 5 minutes before serving so flavors meld.

Serve the braised heirloom veal ragout spooned over polenta, mashed potatoes, buttered pasta, or grilled bread. Garnish with additional parsley and freshly ground black pepper.