Tonnarelli Recipe

Bring a large pot (4–6 liters) of water to a rapid boil. Add the salt so the water tastes almost like the sea.

Add the tonnarelli to the boiling water and cook until just shy of al dente (about 1–2 minutes less than package/fresh pasta timing). Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.

Reserve about 400 ml of the hot pasta cooking water; ladle into a bowl. Do not drain the pasta completely—you will finish cooking in the pan. When the pasta is nearly ready, transfer it directly to the guanciale skillet (see below) using tongs, allowing some water to drip back into the pot.

Render guanciale

While the water is heating, cut the guanciale into 1 cm strips or small dice. Place it in a cold, heavy skillet (cast iron or stainless steel) and set over medium-low heat. Cook gently so the fat renders slowly and the pieces crisp evenly, about 10–12 minutes. Stir occasionally. You want crisp edges and plenty of rendered fat; reduce heat if browning too quickly.

Prepare cheese and pepper

While the guanciale renders, combine the finely grated pecorino and 2 tablespoons of freshly cracked black pepper in a medium bowl. Stir briefly so the pepper is evenly distributed. Add a few tablespoons of the reserved pasta water to the cheese to form a loose, grainy paste—this helps the cheese emulsify into a sauce later.

Finish pasta in pan

When the guanciale is crisp and there is about 2–3 tablespoons of fat in the pan, reduce heat to low. Add the hot, nearly-cooked tonnarelli into the skillet with the guanciale and toss to coat in the fat. Add about 100–150 ml of reserved pasta water and continue to toss or gently stir for 1–2 minutes to finish cooking the pasta and loosen the mixture. The starchy water will help create a silky emulsion with the fat.

Emulsify with pecorino

Remove the skillet from the heat (important to avoid grainy cheese). Add the pecorino–water paste a little at a time, tossing or stirring vigorously to coat the pasta and create a creamy sauce. If the sauce seems too thick or dry, add reserved pasta water a tablespoon at a time until you reach a smooth, glossy consistency that clings to the noodles. Taste and adjust with more pepper if desired.

Serve immediately on warm plates, dividing the tonnarelli among plates. Spoon any remaining crisp guanciale on top and finish with an additional light dusting of grated pecorino and a crack of black pepper.