If using dried chickpeas, pick over and rinse 2 cups dried chickpeas. Place in a large bowl and cover with at least 6–8 cups cold water. Add 1/2 tsp baking soda if using. Soak 8–12 hours or overnight until peas have roughly doubled in size. (If using quick soak: cover with boiling water and soak 1 hour.) If using canned chickpeas, skip to 'Cook chickpeas' and drain/rinse canned chickpeas.

Cook chickpeas

Drain soaked chickpeas and rinse. Put them into a large pot with 8 cups fresh water and 1 tsp salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook 45–60 minutes until tender but holding shape. Skim foam during early boiling. Alternatively, cook in a pressure cooker/Instant Pot: add soaked chickpeas and 6 cups water, secure lid and cook 12–15 minutes high pressure (release naturally 10 minutes). Drain, reserving 1/2 cup cooking liquid, and set chickpeas aside. If using canned chickpeas, rinse and drain 3 cans (about 4–5 cups) and proceed; reserve 1/2 cup of the can liquid if desired for texture.

Masala (sauce and spices)

Prepare aromatics

Heat 3 tbsp oil or ghee in a large skillet or heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. When hot, add 1 tsp cumin seeds and toast 20–30 seconds until fragrant and they start to sizzle.

Cook onions, ginger and garlic

Add 1 cup finely chopped onion and a pinch of salt; sauté 6–8 minutes until soft and beginning to brown. Add 1 tbsp grated ginger, 3 minced garlic cloves, and 1 chopped green chili (if using). Cook 1–2 minutes until raw aroma dissipates.

Add tomatoes and spices

Stir in 2 cups chopped or pureed tomatoes. Cook 6–8 minutes until tomatoes break down and oil begins to separate at the edges. Add 1/2 tsp turmeric, 1 tsp ground coriander, 1/2 tsp cumin powder, 1/2 tsp red chili powder, and 1/2 tsp salt (adjust). Cook another 3–4 minutes, stirring frequently so spices bloom but do not burn.

Combine chickpeas with masala

Add the cooked/drained chickpeas to the tomato-onion masala. Stir to coat. Add about 1 cup water (or reserved chickpea cooking liquid) to create a saucy consistency. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook 8–12 minutes, stirring occasionally, so the chickpeas absorb the flavors. Mash a few chickpeas lightly with the back of a spoon to thicken the sauce slightly.

Finish with spices and herbs

Stir in 1/2 tsp garam masala and 1 tsp amchur (or 1 tsp lemon juice) about 2 minutes before finishing. Taste and adjust salt, chili, or lemon as needed. Turn off heat and fold in 1/4 cup chopped cilantro.

Garnish and serving

Spoon the chana into a serving bowl. Garnish with additional fresh cilantro leaves, thinly sliced red onion, and lemon wedges. Serve hot with steamed rice, roti, naan, or as a street-food style chaat topped with yogurt, tamarind chutney and sev if desired.