Heat a large heavy skillet or shallow Dutch oven over medium heat. Add 2 tbs olive oil. When oil shimmers, add finely diced onion, carrot, and celery. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft and translucent, about 6–8 minutes. Add minced garlic and cook 30–45 seconds until fragrant.

Brown the meat

Increase heat to medium-high. Add the house ground meat, breaking it up with a spoon or spatula. Brown the meat until no longer pink and some brown bits develop, about 6–8 minutes. Do not overcrowd — if the pan looks crowded, brown in two batches. Season with 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp black pepper while browning.

Build the sauce

Push meat and vegetables to the side and add the tomato paste; cook 1–2 minutes, stirring, until the paste darkens slightly. Stir everything together. Add the crushed San Marzano tomatoes, beef stock, dried oregano, dried basil, and red pepper flakes. Stir to combine and bring to a gentle simmer.

Simmer and reduce

Reduce heat to low and simmer gently, uncovered or partially covered, for 25–35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens and flavors concentrate. Taste and adjust seasoning with remaining 1/2 tsp salt, remaining black pepper, and optional 1 tsp sugar if tomatoes taste sharp.

Pasta & Finish

Cook the rigatoni

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 tbs coarse salt. Add the rigatoni and cook until al dente according to package directions (usually 10–12 minutes). Reserve 1 cup of pasta cooking water, then drain the rigatoni.

Combine pasta and ragù

Return the drained rigatoni to the pot or a large sauté pan over low heat. Add 1–2 ladles (about 1 cup) of the hot ragù and 1/2 cup of the reserved pasta water to the pasta. Toss to coat, then add the remaining ragù as needed so pasta is well coated. Add 2 tbs unsalted butter and toss until glossy. If the sauce is too thick, add more reserved pasta water a few tablespoons at a time until the desired saucy consistency is reached.

Finish with pecorino

Remove from heat. Add the finely grated pecorino romano in two additions, tossing between additions so cheese melts into the sauce and helps bind it to the pasta. If needed, add a splash of pasta water to loosen. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.

Serve

Portion pasta into 4 bowls. Sprinkle each serving with additional pecorino if desired, a pinch of chopped fresh parsley, and a grind of black pepper. Serve immediately.