In a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, combine warm water, sugar, and yeast. Stir gently and let sit 5 minutes until foamy. Add melted butter and salt. Gradually add flour, 1 cup at a time, mixing until a shaggy dough forms. If using a stand mixer with a dough hook, knead on medium speed for 5–7 minutes until smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky. If kneading by hand, turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead 8–10 minutes.

Lightly oil a clean bowl, place the dough inside, cover with plastic wrap or a towel, and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 to 1¼ hours.

Shape pretzels

Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment. Punch down the dough and divide into 8 equal pieces (about 3.5–4 oz each). Roll each piece into a 20–24 inch rope, then shape into traditional pretzel form: make a U, cross ends twice, fold down to make a pretzel. Place shaped pretzels on prepared sheets, leaving space to expand.

Baking soda bath and egg wash

Bring about 8 cups of water to a rolling boil in a wide pot. Carefully add 2 cups baking soda (it will bubble up). Reduce to a simmer. Working two at a time, gently lower each pretzel into the simmering baking soda bath for 20–30 seconds, flipping once so both sides get a brief bath. Remove with a slotted spatula and return to the parchment-lined sheet. Brush each pretzel with beaten egg wash, then sprinkle coarse pretzel salt evenly over the tops.

Bake

Bake pretzels until deep golden brown, 12–14 minutes, rotating pans halfway through for even color. Remove to a cooling rack and let rest 5 minutes before serving with warm queso.

White Queso

Sauté aromatics

While pretzels are rising or about 20 minutes before serving, melt 2 tbsp butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add minced onion and sauté 3–4 minutes until translucent. Add minced garlic and cook 30–45 seconds until fragrant, taking care not to brown.

Make roux

Sprinkle 2 tbsp flour over the softened onions and garlic and stir constantly for 1–2 minutes to cook the raw flour taste, forming a light roux.

Add liquids and melt cheeses

Gradually whisk in whole milk and half-and-half, starting with a few tablespoons to loosen the roux, then adding the rest. Bring mixture to a gentle simmer, whisking constantly until slightly thickened, about 3–4 minutes. Reduce heat to low and whisk in softened cream cheese until smooth. Add shredded white American (or cheddar/Monterey Jack) a handful at a time, stirring until fully melted and smooth before adding the next handful.

Stir in the optional queso fresco or cotija, ground cumin, smoked paprika, hot sauce, kosher salt, and black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning and heat. If the queso is too thick, thin with up to 2 tbsp additional milk; if too thin, simmer gently a minute longer while stirring. Keep queso warm over very low heat or in a small warmed fondue pot for serving.

Transfer queso to a serving bowl. Garnish with chopped cilantro and scallions if using. Serve immediately alongside warm pretzels for dipping.

To Serve

Arrange 2 pretzels per serving with a bowl (about ¼–½ cup) of warm white queso. Sprinkle a few extra crumbles of queso fresco or a pinch of smoked paprika over the queso for presentation. Provide extra napkins — these are best eaten warm.