If using whole cold-smoked kippers, rinse briefly under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. If using fresh split kippers, pat dry and lightly score the flesh with 2 shallow incisions on each side to help seasoning penetrate.

Season

Place the kippers skin-side down on a plate or tray. Sprinkle each side lightly with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cut the lemon in half; reserve one half for squeezing over the cooked fish and slice the other half into thin rounds for serving.

Melt butter

Put 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in a small heatproof bowl and gently melt (microwave 15–25 seconds or in a small saucepan over low heat) until liquid. Keep warm.

Cook kippers (grill/broil or pan)

Option A — Grill/broil: Preheat the grill (broiler) to high. Oil a broiler pan or line with foil. Place the kippers skin-side up on the rack. Grill about 5–7 minutes for split kippers (slightly longer if large), until the flesh is opaque, flakes easily and the skin is crisping but not burnt. Brush the flesh once with some of the melted butter in the last minute. Option B — Pan-fry: Heat a large nonstick or heavy skillet over medium-high heat with 1 tsp olive oil. Place kippers skin-side down and cook 3–4 minutes until skin is crisp. Turn carefully and cook 2–3 minutes more until cooked through. Spoon the melted butter over the fish in the final 30–60 seconds.

Finish

As soon as the kippers are cooked, transfer to warmed plates. Squeeze the reserved lemon half over the fish and drizzle with the remaining melted butter. Serve with lemon rounds on the side.

Accompaniments (traditional and optional)

Cook new potatoes

Place the rinsed new potatoes in a saucepan and cover with about 1 cm of cold water. Add 1 tsp sea salt. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook until just tender when pierced with a fork, 12–15 minutes depending on size. Drain well and return to the hot pan for a minute to dry off any residual water.

Dress potatoes

Toss the drained potatoes with 1 tsp olive oil, 1 tsp mustard, 1 tsp brown or malt vinegar and 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley. Adjust seasoning with salt to taste.

Serve

Plate each kipper with a portion of dressed new potatoes. Offer extra lemon, more melted butter or a little extra vinegar and mustard on the side. Traditional accompaniments can also include toasted soda bread or buttered toast and a wedge of raw onion if desired.