Rinse clams under cold water, discard any with broken shells or that do not close when tapped. In a large pot, combine 3 cups water and 1/2 cup white wine and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.

Add clams, cover, and steam until shells open, 6–8 minutes. Shake pot once or twice during cooking so clams cook evenly. Remove clams as they open to a bowl; discard any that remain closed after 10 minutes.

Reserve the steaming liquid by straining through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth or a coffee filter into a bowl to remove grit; you should have roughly 1 to 1 1/2 cups of clear clam liquor. Set aside.

When clams are cool enough to handle, remove meat from shells; chop half the meat coarsely and leave the rest in halves/large pieces. Place chopped and whole clam meat in the refrigerator until needed.

Soup Base

Cook bacon

In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, add diced bacon and cook until fat is rendered and bacon is crisp, about 6–8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a paper towel–lined plate, leaving rendered fat in the pot (leave about 1–2 tbs fat; discard excess or reserve).

Sweat aromatics

Reduce heat to medium-low and add 3 tbs butter to the bacon fat. When butter melts, add diced onion and celery with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, 6–8 minutes. Add minced garlic and cook 30–45 seconds until fragrant.

Make roux

Sprinkle 3 tbs flour over the softened vegetables and cook, stirring constantly, for 1.5–2 minutes to remove raw flour taste and create a light roux (do not let it brown).

Deglaze & build

Slowly whisk in the reserved clam liquor and 2 cups chicken or clam stock, scraping any browned bits from the pot. Add the diced potatoes, bay leaves, thyme sprigs, and kosher salt. Increase heat to bring to a gentle simmer and cook until potatoes are tender, about 12–15 minutes.

Finish soup

Once potatoes are tender, reduce heat to low. Remove and discard bay leaves and thyme stems. Stir in whole milk and heavy cream, warming gently — do not boil once dairy is added to avoid curdling. Add the reserved steamed clams (both chopped and larger pieces) and the cooked bacon pieces. Simmer gently 3–4 minutes until clams are heated through and flavors meld. Taste and adjust seasoning with additional salt and 1/2 tsp black pepper if needed.

Finishing & Garnish

Brighten & serve

Stir in 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice and 2 tablespoons chopped parsley. Ladle chowder into warmed bowls and sprinkle with optional chopped chives. Serve immediately with buttered baguette slices.

Prepare baguette

Meanwhile, preheat broiler or oven to 375°F (190°C). Brush baguette slices lightly with 2 tbs melted butter. Toast under broiler or in oven until golden, about 2–4 minutes, watching carefully to prevent burning. Serve alongside the chowder.