Trim excess fat from mutton pieces if desired. In a large bowl combine yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, slit green chilies, red chili powder, turmeric, ground coriander, garam masala, salt, lemon juice, chopped mint and coriander, and 1 cup fried onions. Mix thoroughly until a smooth paste coats the meat. Add the mutton pieces, massage marinade into the meat, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours — preferably overnight for best flavor and tenderness.

Cook mutton until tender

Heat 2 tbs oil and 2 tbs ghee in a heavy-bottomed pot or pressure cooker over medium heat. Add 1 cinnamon stick, 4 cardamom pods, 3 cloves, and half the peppercorns and bay leaves; sauté for 30 seconds until fragrant. Add marinated mutton and sear on medium-high heat for 6–8 minutes, stirring occasionally until the surface colors and marinade thickens. Add about 1 cup water, close the pressure cooker and cook on medium-high until 3–4 whistles (or in a heavy pot, cover and simmer for 1.25–1.5 hours) until mutton is tender but not falling apart. If using a pot, check and add small amounts of water to prevent burning. Once cooked, remove from heat and set aside. Reserve the cooking liquid (about 1/2–1 cup) — strain fat if necessary.

Rice & Aromatics

Soak and parboil rice

Rinse basmati rice under cold water until the runoff is clear. Soak rice in 2 cups water for 30 minutes, then drain. In a large pot bring 2 litres water to a rolling boil with 2 tsp salt, remaining whole spices (4 cardamom pods, 3 cloves, remaining peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, 1 cinnamon stick). Add drained rice and cook uncovered on high heat, stirring occasionally, until grains are 70–80% cooked (about 6–8 minutes depending on rice age). Test a grain: it should have a slight white core. Immediately drain rice in a colander and spread to stop cooking.

Saffron infusion

Warm the milk slightly and add saffron threads. Let steep 10 minutes to release color and aroma. Stir in rose water or kewra water if using.

Cooking Fat & Toppings

Fry onions (if making homemade)

If you did not use store-bought fried onions, heat 1 tbs oil in a wide skillet and add thinly sliced onions. Fry on medium-high, stirring frequently, until deeply golden brown and crisp (about 12–18 minutes). Drain on paper towels and set aside. Alternatively use store-bought fried onions.

Assemble layers (Dum preparation)

Clean a wide, heavy-bottomed pot or use the same heavy pot. Spread half the cooked mutton and some of its gravy evenly over the bottom. Drizzle half of the saffron milk over the meat. Sprinkle half of the chopped mint, coriander, and 1/2 cup fried onions. Gently spread half of the parboiled rice over the meat in an even layer. Repeat with remaining mutton, saffron milk, herbs, and fried onions, then top with the remaining rice to form the final layer. Dot the top with remaining ghee and 1 tbs butter (if using).

Seal and cook on dum

Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid. For a better seal, place a sheet of foil between pot rim and lid or tie a damp cotton cloth around the lid. Place the sealed pot on a hot tava (griddle) over medium heat and reduce heat to low. Cook on low for 25–30 minutes to allow flavors to meld and steam to finish cooking rice and absorb flavors (this is the 'dum'). Alternatively bake at 160°C (320°F) for 25–30 minutes.

Garnish & Serve

Rest and finish

Turn off heat and let the biryani rest, sealed, for 10 minutes. Carefully remove lid and fluff the rice gently with a fork from the edges to bring up layers without breaking grains.

Garnish and serve

Transfer biryani to a large serving dish or serve straight from the pot. Garnish with reserved fried onions, chopped coriander and mint, and lemon wedges. Serve hot with raita, salad, and boiled eggs if desired.