Rinse 2 cups basmati rice under cold water until the water runs clear to remove excess starch. Soak the rice in cold water for 20–30 minutes, then drain.

Parboil rice

Bring 1600 ml water to a rolling boil in a large pot. Add 1 tablespoon salt, 5 green cardamom pods, 6 cloves, 1-inch cinnamon stick, and 2 bay leaves. Add drained rice and cook uncovered on high heat until rice is about 70–80% cooked (grains should still have a slight bite, about 6–8 minutes depending on rice). Drain rice in a colander and set aside.

Fish & Marinade

Marinate the fish

In a bowl, combine 3 tbs yogurt, 1 tsp turmeric, 1 tsp chili powder, 1 tsp salt, 1 tbs lemon juice, 1 tsp ginger paste, and 1 tsp garlic paste. Gently toss the 600 g fish pieces in the marinade to coat thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for 20–30 minutes (no longer than 1 hour for delicate fish).

Sear or lightly fry fish

Heat 1 tbs oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add marinated fish pieces in a single layer and sear for 1–2 minutes per side until lightly golden but not fully cooked through. Remove and set aside. (Searing firms the fish and helps it hold together during layering.)

Biryani Masala & Curry Base

Prepare masala base

Heat 4 tbs vegetable oil and 2 tbs ghee in a heavy-bottomed wide pan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add sliced onions and cook, stirring often, until they are deep golden brown and caramelized, about 12–15 minutes. Remove 3–4 tablespoons of these browned onions and reserve for garnish (you can use store-bought fried onions instead if preferred).

Build flavors

To the remaining onions in the pan, add 2 slit green chilies, 1 cup chopped tomato, 1 tbs julienned ginger, 1 tbs minced garlic, and optional 8 curry leaves. Cook until the tomato softens and oil begins to separate, about 5–7 minutes.

Add dry spices

Stir in 1 tsp coriander powder, 1 tsp cumin powder, 1 tsp garam masala, 1 tsp red chili powder, and 1 tsp Kashmiri chili powder (if using). Cook the spices for 1–2 minutes to bloom their flavors.

Simmer fish in masala

Add the seared fish pieces to the masala gently, then pour 200 ml fish stock or water. Spoon some of the masala over the fish, cover, and simmer on low heat for 4–5 minutes—just enough for the fish to be nearly cooked and to absorb flavors. Turn off heat and carefully transfer fish and a little gravy into the vessel you will use for final layering. Stir in 1/2 cup chopped cilantro and 1/4 cup chopped mint into the gravy (reserve a small amount for garnish).

Layering & Final Dum

Prepare saffron milk and layer

Soak 10 saffron strands in 2 tbs warm milk for 10 minutes. On the base layer in the wide pan or a heavy-bottomed pot, spread the fish pieces and spoon some of the masala and gravy evenly. Sprinkle half of the reserved fried onions, half of the roasted cashews and raisins, and a tablespoon each of chopped cilantro and mint over the fish.

Top with rice and season

Gently spread the parboiled rice over the fish in an even layer. Sprinkle the remaining fried onions, cashews, raisins, and herbs. Drizzle the saffron milk evenly across the rice and dot 1 tbs ghee or butter over the top. If desired, sprinkle 1/2 tsp garam masala for aroma.

Seal and cook (dum)

Seal the pot tightly: place a sheet of aluminum foil or dampened parchment over the pot, then cover with the lid; or grease the rim and place the lid to create a tight seal. Cook on very low heat for 20–25 minutes to allow steam (dum) to finish cooking the rice and fish and meld flavors. To avoid burning, place the pot on a heat diffuser or a tawa (griddle) over low heat.

Rest and serve

Turn off the heat and let the biryani rest sealed for 8–10 minutes. Remove lid, gently fluff the rice from the edges using a fork, taking care not to break the fish pieces. Garnish with remaining cilantro and mint leaves. Serve hot with raita, lemon wedges, and extra fried onions on the side.