In a small bowl combine the warm water (2.5 cups) with the active dry yeast and 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Stir lightly and let sit 5–10 minutes until foamy. In the bowl of a stand mixer (or large mixing bowl), combine the bread flour, remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and kosher salt. Make a well, add the foamy yeast mixture and 2 tablespoons barley malt syrup. Mix with a dough hook on low speed until a shaggy dough forms, about 2–3 minutes.

Knead

Increase mixer speed to medium and knead 6–8 minutes until the dough is smooth, elastic and slightly tacky. If kneading by hand, turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead 10–12 minutes. Add flour sparingly — dough should be firm and springy, not dry.

First rise

Form the dough into a ball, lightly oil a large bowl, place dough in bowl and cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel. Let rise in a warm draft-free spot until doubled, about 1–1.25 hours.

Portion and shape

Punch down the dough and transfer to a lightly floured surface. Divide into 12 equal pieces (about 110–120 g / 4 oz each). Roll each piece into a tight ball, then create a hole either by poking through the center with your finger and stretching to form a 1.5–2 inch hole, or roll each piece into a rope and join the ends to form a ring. Place shaped bagels on a parchment-lined baking sheet, at least 1 inch apart. Cover with a lightly oiled piece of plastic wrap and rest 20–30 minutes while you preheat the oven and prepare the boil.

Boiling/Finishing

Preheat oven and prepare boil

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). In a large wide pot bring 8 cups of water to a gentle boil. Stir in 2 tablespoons baking soda and 1 tablespoon barley malt syrup (this helps color and flavor the crust). The water should be at a low rolling simmer, not a vigorous boil.

Boil bagels

Carefully drop 2–3 bagels at a time into the simmering water (do not overcrowd). Boil for 45–60 seconds on the first side, then flip with a slotted spatula and boil 30–45 seconds on the second side. For chewier, denser bagels boil on each side closer to 60 seconds; for slightly lighter bagels use shorter times. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain briefly on a wire rack or paper towel.

Top and bake

Place boiled bagels back onto the parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush the tops lightly with egg wash. Immediately sprinkle desired toppings (sesame, poppy, everything, or coarse salt). Bake in the preheated oven for 18–22 minutes, rotating the pan once halfway through, until deep golden brown and crusty. Thicker bagels or darker ovens may need up to 25 minutes.

Cool

Remove baked bagels to a wire rack and cool at least 15 minutes before slicing — cooling lets the crumb set and prevents gumminess.

Serving

Slice bagels with a serrated knife, spread with cream cheese and top with smoked salmon, tomato, red onion and capers as desired. Bagels are best the day of baking; to store, keep in a paper bag inside a plastic bag at room temperature up to 2 days or freeze cooled bagels (sliced) up to 3 months.