Kurodai ‡ Recipe

Prepare the fish

Rinse the kurodai under cold water and pat dry thoroughly with paper towels inside and out. Using a sharp knife, score 2–3 shallow diagonal cuts on each side of the fish to help it cook evenly and absorb seasoning. Season the cavity and both sides liberally with kosher salt and the freshly ground black pepper (about 2 tsp salt total).

Stuff and oil

Stuff the cavity with half the lemon (cut into wedges), one smashed garlic clove, and a few slices of ginger and one spring onion piece. Brush both sides of the fish lightly with the neutral oil (about 1 tbs) to prevent sticking.

Cook the fish (pan-roast)

Heat a large heavy skillet (cast iron or stainless) over medium-high heat until hot. Add the remaining 1 tbs oil. When the oil shimmers, place the fish in the pan and press gently so the scored sides make even contact. Cook without moving for 4–5 minutes, until the skin is crisp and golden and the fish releases easily. Reduce heat to medium-low, add the butter and remaining garlic, ginger and spring onion pieces to the pan around the fish. Spoon the melted butter and aromatics over the fish (basting) while it cooks another 4–6 minutes, flipping carefully once after the first 4–5 minutes if the fish is small; for a 1 kg whole fish, cook about 4–6 minutes per side depending on thickness. The fish is done when the flesh is opaque and flakes easily at the thickest part and the internal temperature reaches 62–63°C (144–145°F).

Finish and dress

Remove the fish to a warmed platter. Squeeze the remaining lemon half over the fish, pour any pan juices and melted butter over top, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Add a drizzle of the soy sauce/rice wine mixture (see Aromatics & garnish) to the pan when deglazing and spoon it over the fish for a glossy finish.

Prepare sauce: In a small bowl combine soy sauce, mirin and rice wine/sherry. Taste and adjust — it should be salty-sweet-tangy. When the fish is nearly done, add this mixture to the hot pan with the aromatics and let it bubble for 30–60 seconds to reduce slightly, scraping up any browned bits. Baste the fish with this reduced mixture as a finishing glaze.

Garnish: Scatter remaining chopped spring onion and parsley over the fish before serving. Add thin lemon slices or wedges on the platter for extra acidity at the table.

While the fish cooks, heat a separate skillet over medium-high. Add sesame oil and then the baby bok choy or spinach. Toss and cook until wilted and slightly blistered, 2–3 minutes. Season with salt to taste and transfer to a small bowl to serve alongside the fish.