If whole, separate tentacles from tubes. Rinse tubes and tentacles under cold water, pat very dry with paper towels. Slice tubes into 1/2-inch rings. Dry again—excess moisture prevents crisping.

Season and set up dredge

In a shallow bowl whisk eggs with milk or cold sparkling water until combined. In a second shallow bowl combine flour, cornstarch, semolina (if using), baking powder, salt and pepper. The cornstarch and baking powder help create a light, crisp crust.

Coat calamari

Toss the calamari rings and tentacles lightly with the flour mixture to remove surface moisture. Dip each piece into the egg wash, then return to the flour mixture for a final coating. Shake off excess flour and place on a wire rack while you heat the oil. For extra crunch, press a small amount of extra semolina/breadcrumbs onto the wet coating.

Heat oil and fry

In a heavy pot or deep fryer heat 2 cups neutral oil to 350–360°F (175–182°C). If you don't have a thermometer, test with one coated piece—the oil should sizzle vigorously and the coating should brown in about 1–1.5 minutes. Fry calamari in small batches (avoid overcrowding) for 1 to 1.5 minutes until golden and crisp. Tentacles may take slightly longer—about 1.5–2 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a paper-towel-lined tray to drain. Keep finished batches warm on a low oven tray (200°F/95°C) while you cook the rest.

Finish

Immediately after frying, sprinkle calamari with a pinch more fine sea salt, chopped parsley and a light drizzle of olive oil if desired. Squeeze fresh lemon over the top just before serving.

Marinara Sauce

In a small saucepan heat 2 tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add minced garlic and sauté 30–45 seconds until fragrant but not browned. Add tomato paste and cook 30 seconds, then add crushed tomatoes, oregano, salt and sugar. Bring to a gentle simmer, reduce heat and simmer uncovered 10–12 minutes until slightly thickened. Stir in fresh basil at the end. Keep warm for serving alongside calamari.

Fra Diavolo Sauce

In a small saucepan heat 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add minced garlic and red pepper flakes; sauté 30 seconds. Deglaze with white wine if using and reduce by half (about 1 minute). Add crushed tomatoes and salt, then simmer 8–10 minutes until slightly thickened. Stir in chopped parsley. Adjust heat by adding more red pepper flakes to taste.

To serve

Place fried calamari on a warmed platter, garnish with chopped parsley and lemon wedges. Serve immediately with warmed marinara and/or Fra Diavolo sauce for dipping. Provide extra lemon on the side and a small bowl of salt if desired.