If not already cleaned, separate tubes from tentacles, remove cartilage and skin, rinse under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Slice tubes into 1/2-inch wide strips; leave tentacles whole or halved if large.

Soak

Place the cut calamari in a bowl with buttermilk (or milk) and beaten eggs. Toss to coat and let sit 10 minutes. This tenderizes and helps coating adhere.

Mix dry coating

In a shallow bowl or pie plate combine all-purpose flour, cornstarch, semolina or panko (if using), kosher salt, black pepper, garlic powder and paprika. Whisk to evenly distribute spices.

Heat oil

Pour vegetable oil into a deep skillet or pot to a depth of about 1 1/2 inches (or use a deep fryer). Heat to 350°F (175°C). If you don't have a thermometer, test by dropping a pinch of flour into the oil — it should sizzle and brown in about 30–45 seconds.

Dredge and fry (in batches)

Working in small batches to avoid overcrowding, remove calamari from the egg-milk mixture letting excess drip off, then dredge thoroughly in the flour mixture, pressing lightly to form an even coating. Shake off excess. Fry the calamari 1 to 1 1/2 minutes per batch until crisp and just opaque — do not overcook or it becomes rubbery. Remove with a slotted spoon to a wire rack or paper towel-lined tray. Repeat until all are cooked.

Finish

Immediately season fried calamari with a light sprinkle of salt. Keep cooked batches warm in a low oven (200°F / 95°C) on a rack while finishing remaining batches. Serve hot with lemon wedges, cocktail and tartar sauces.

Cocktail Sauce

In a small bowl combine ketchup, prepared horseradish, fresh lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce (if using) and salt. Stir until smooth. Taste and adjust horseradish or lemon for desired heat and brightness. Chill until serving.

Tartar Sauce

In a small bowl mix mayonnaise, finely minced dill pickle, chopped capers, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, chopped parsley, black pepper and salt. Stir until well combined. Taste and adjust seasoning. Chill at least 15 minutes to allow flavors to meld before serving.