Bring a large pot of water (about 4–5 liters) to a rolling boil. Add indicated salt. Add rigatoni and cook until just shy of al dente according to package instructions (usually 1–2 minutes less than recommended). Reserve 250 ml of the pasta cooking water, then drain rigatoni and toss with 1 tsp olive oil to prevent sticking. Keep warm.

Bolognese ragù

Sweat aromatics

Heat 2 tbsp olive oil and 1 tbsp butter in a large heavy-bottomed sauté pan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the diced onion, carrot and celery (the soffritto) and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened and translucent, about 7–8 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook 30–45 seconds until fragrant.

Brown pancetta and meat

Add the minced pancetta and cook 3–4 minutes until it begins to render fat. Increase heat to medium-high. Add the ground beef and ground pork, breaking up with a spoon. Cook, stirring and spreading the meat so moisture evaporates and meat browns evenly, about 6–8 minutes. Season with 1/2 tsp of the salt and 1/4 tsp pepper while browning.

Tomato paste and deglaze

Stir in the tomato paste and cook 2 minutes to caramelize slightly. Pour in the white wine to deglaze, scraping any browned bits from the bottom. Let the wine reduce until almost evaporated, about 2–3 minutes.

Add milk and tomatoes

Pour in the milk and simmer 2–3 minutes (this softens acidity and tenderizes meat). Add crushed tomatoes, stock, bay leaf, thyme, dried oregano, remaining salt and pepper. Stir to combine.

Simmer gently

Reduce heat to low so the sauce barely simmers. Partially cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 45–60 minutes until thickened and flavors have melded. If sauce reduces too much, add small amounts of reserved stock or water. Taste and adjust seasoning near the end; remove bay leaf and thyme sprig.

Finish & serve

Stir 1 tbsp butter (optional) into the warm ragù to add gloss. Add about two-thirds of the grated Parmesan to the sauce and stir until incorporated and creamy. Add drained rigatoni to the ragù pan (or combine in a large bowl). Toss gently, adding reserved pasta water a few tablespoons at a time until sauce clings to the pasta and reaches desired consistency (usually 60–120 ml). Heat together for 1–2 minutes so pasta absorbs sauce.

Plate the rigatoni into warmed bowls. Sprinkle remaining grated Parmesan over each portion. Dust lightly with fennel pollen (about 1/8 tsp per serving) — fennel pollen is potent, so start light and adjust to taste. Finish with chopped parsley and an extra crack of black pepper. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan at the table.