Dermaplaning Recipe
A simple and safe resurfacing treatment involving gentle scraping to remove vellus hairs (peach fuzz) and dead skin, resulting in a smoother and brighter complexion.
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Ingredients
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Client preparation
Sanitation & protection
Dermaplaning tools
Treatment products
Optional: pre/post add-ons
Method
Client preparation
Consultation & contraindications
Review client medical history, skin type, medications (retinoids, isotretinoin, active acne), allergies, recent procedures, and obtain informed consent. Identify contraindications such as active cold sores, open lesions, recent chemical peels (within 7–14 days), or isotretinoin use within 6 months.
Seat the client upright or semi-reclined. Secure hair with a disposable headband or clips so hairline is clear.
Ask the client to remove makeup. Use 1 tablespoon gentle cleanser on dampened skin to remove surface makeup and oils. Rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry with a clean towel.
Follow with micellar water or alcohol-free toner on cotton pads to ensure all residue is removed. Use 2 cotton pads to sweep across the face until pads come away clean.
Sanitation & protection
Sanitize hands with antiseptic hand cleanser. Put on disposable gloves and practitioner mask. Replace gloves if they touch non-sterile surfaces.
Prepare sterile blades: open single-use scalpel blades or dermaplaning blade packaging immediately before use and place on a clean, sanitized tray. Use only one blade per client; replace if it drags or becomes dull.
Dermaplaning procedure
Positioning
Ask the client to look slightly upward to keep the skin taut on cheeks and jawline. Work in good light with a small mirror available for angle reference if needed.
Optional numbing
If client requests and protocol allows, apply a thin layer of topical numbing cream to sensitive areas and wait per product instructions (typically 10–20 minutes). Remove residual cream thoroughly with micellar water before proceeding.
Technique — general
Hold the blade at a 30-degree angle to the skin. Using short, gentle strokes, sweep the blade across the skin in the direction of hair growth (for most facial areas this is downward on cheeks and chin; upward or lateral in other small zones), keeping the skin slightly stretched with the free hand. Do not use excessive pressure; the motion should be a light scraping to remove vellus hair and superficial dead skin only.
Sequence
Start at one cheek: make 4–6 short strokes along the cheek from the cheekbone area toward the jawline, overlapping strokes slightly. Move to the other cheek. Then treat the forehead with short downward strokes, paying attention to hair growth direction. Treat the nose and upper lip with small, careful strokes, and finish along the jawline and chin. Avoid dragging over active lesions, cystic acne, or broken skin.
Wiping between passes
After a few passes in each area, use a clean cotton pad or gauze to wipe away removed hair and exfoliated skin. Inspect the area and adjust angle or pressure if needed. Replace blade if it shows resistance or becomes dull.
Full-face pass check
After completing all areas, lightly run your fingertips over the skin to feel for any remaining peach fuzz; perform a light second pass only where needed, using the same gentle technique. Do not over-exfoliate any single area.
Post-treatment care
Cleanse the face gently with cool water or a mild cleanser to remove residue. Pat skin dry with a clean towel.
Apply 1 teaspoon of a lightweight hydrating gel or hyaluronic serum to the face and gently massage to soothe and hydrate. Focus on dry or sensitive zones.
Apply a thin layer (1 tablespoon equivalent across face/neck) of calming cream or aloe gel to reduce redness and protect the barrier.
Advise the client that mild erythema (pinkness) is normal for several hours. Provide aftercare instructions: avoid direct sun exposure, heavy sweating, hot baths/saunas, active exfoliants (AHAs/BHAs/retinoids) for 48–72 hours, and to wear broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30+) daily. Apply sunscreen prior to leaving if possible.
If using optional antioxidant (vitamin C), wait 24 hours post-treatment to apply to reduce irritation risk.
Clean-up & disposal
Dispose of used blades immediately into a sharps container. Remove gloves and practitioner mask, sanitize hands, and clean all surfaces and tools following local infection-control protocols.
Document the treatment in the client record: areas treated, blade used, any reactions, and aftercare provided.