Malfalde Lamb Ragu, Slow Cooked With Wine And San Marzano Tomatoes Recipe

Prepare and sear lamb

Cut the lamb shoulder into large 4–5 cm (1.5–2 in) chunks. Pat dry with paper towels and season generously with 1 1/2 teaspoons of the sea salt and 1/2 teaspoon of the black pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil and the butter in a large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. In batches, add lamb pieces without crowding and brown on all sides, about 3–4 minutes per side, until a deep caramel crust forms. Transfer browned lamb to a plate and set aside.

Sweat vegetables

Reduce heat to medium. Add remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil to the pot. Add diced onion, carrot and celery and a pinch of salt. Sweat gently, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft and translucent, about 8–10 minutes. Add minced garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring, 2 more minutes until the paste darkens slightly and garlic is fragrant.

Deglaze with wine

Increase heat to medium-high and pour in the red wine, scraping up browned bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Let the wine reduce by about two-thirds, 8–12 minutes, until slightly syrupy.

Add tomatoes and aromatics

Crush the San Marzano tomatoes by hand or with a spoon and add them to the pot along with their juices. Stir in the stock, bay leaves, rosemary, thyme, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt (adjust later), sugar, and the browned lamb with any accumulated juices. Bring to a gentle simmer.

Slow cook

Cover the pot partially with its lid, reduce heat to low, and simmer very gently for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, stirring every 20–30 minutes and checking liquid levels. The lamb is done when it is fork-tender and can be shredded easily. If the sauce reduces too quickly, add up to 120 ml reserved stock or water to maintain a slow simmer.

Finish the ragu

Once the lamb is tender, remove the meat to a cutting board. Discard bay leaves. With two forks, shred the lamb into bite-sized pieces, removing any excess gristle. Return shredded lamb to the pot. Stir in the milk and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon sea salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper to round acidity and enrich the sauce. Simmer uncovered over low heat 10–15 minutes to allow flavors to meld and sauce to thicken to a loose yet clingy consistency. Taste and adjust seasoning. Stir in chopped parsley just before using.

Cook pasta

Bring a large pot of heavily salted water (about 1 tablespoon salt per 4 liters) to a rolling boil. Add the malfalde and cook until al dente according to package instructions, usually 9–12 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Reserve 1 cup (240 ml) of pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta, keeping it slightly wet.

Combine pasta and ragu

Return the drained pasta to the pot or a large sauté pan over low heat. Add 3–4 ladlefuls of the hot ragu and 2–3 tablespoons of the reserved pasta water (or more as needed) and toss to coat, adding more ragu liquid to achieve a silky, clingy sauce that nests between the malfalde ribbons. If the ragu seems too thick, add up to 120 ml reserved ragu cooking liquid or pasta water to loosen.

Finish and serve

Off the heat, stir in 2 tablespoons of grated Pecorino (reserve the rest for serving) and 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil to gloss the pasta. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. Divide among warm plates, sprinkle with remaining cheese and a little chopped parsley, and serve immediately with extra grated cheese at the table.