Rinse shrimp shells and heads briefly under cold water. In a medium saucepan, heat 1 tbs olive oil and 1 tbs butter over medium heat until shimmering.

Add the chopped onion, carrot and celery. Sweat without browning for 5–6 minutes until softened.

Stir in smashed garlic and tomato paste; cook 1–2 minutes to mellow the tomato paste.

Add shrimp shells and heads and increase heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally, 3–4 minutes to extract color and flavor from shells.

Deglaze with the white wine, scraping any browned bits; reduce by half, about 2–3 minutes.

Add water, bay leaf, peppercorns, thyme and 1 tsp salt. Bring to a gentle simmer, reduce heat and simmer uncovered 25–30 minutes.

Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot or bowl, pressing on solids to extract liquid. Discard solids. Return strained stock to the saucepan and keep warm. You should have roughly 700–800 ml. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Bisque (main)

In a heavy-bottomed pot, melt 2 tbs butter over medium heat. Add the finely diced shallot and cook until translucent, 3–4 minutes.

Add minced garlic and cook 30 seconds until fragrant.

Sprinkle in the 2 tbs flour and cook, stirring constantly, 1–2 minutes to form a blond roux (do not brown).

Carefully add the cognac/brandy and stir, allowing alcohol to flame off if desired and safe. Cook 30–60 seconds.

Slowly whisk in 700 ml of the prepared shrimp stock until smooth, scraping any roux from the bottom. Add the 120 ml tomato concassé and bring to a gentle simmer.

Simmer the bisque for 12–15 minutes to thicken and concentrate flavors. Skim any foam if needed.

Working in batches, transfer the bisque to a blender and puree until very smooth (or use an immersion blender). Return to the pot and pass through a fine sieve for an ultra-silky texture.

Stir in the heavy cream and bring back to a gentle warm (do not boil). Taste and adjust salt (about 3/4 tsp kosher), pepper (1/4 tsp) and add 1 tsp lemon juice to brighten.

Add the chopped raw shrimp to the warm bisque and simmer gently 2–3 minutes until shrimp turn pink and are just cooked through. Do not overcook.

Remove from heat. Stir in chopped chives or parsley. Keep warm until serving.

Garlic focaccia toast (served with bisque)

Preheat oven to 200°C (400°F).

In a small bowl, combine 2 tbs softened butter, 1 tbs olive oil and the very finely minced garlic. Mix thoroughly.

Brush the mixture evenly over focaccia slices. Sprinkle each slice with a little grated Parmesan (optional) and a pinch of coarse sea salt.

Place focaccia on a baking sheet and toast in the oven 6–8 minutes, or until edges are golden and the topping is bubbling.

Remove, sprinkle with chopped parsley and cut into desired pieces. Serve immediately alongside bowls of hot shrimp bisque.