Navy Zipped Sweatshirt Recipe

Prepare pattern and fabric

Prewash and dry the fleece and rib knit to pre-shrink. Lay out pattern pieces for front, back, sleeves, rib cuffs, hem band, and collar on fabric according to grain. Cut pieces carefully, leaving seam allowances as per pattern (commonly 1.0–1.5 cm).

Interface zipper area

Apply light fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the front edges where the zipper will sit and to the collar pieces. Press gently to avoid crushing the nap of the fleece.

Assemble shoulder seams

With right sides together, pin and stitch the front pieces to the back piece at each shoulder using a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag (1.0–1.5 cm seam allowance). Finish seams with a serger or a zigzag to prevent fraying.

Attach sleeves

With garment inside out, match sleeve notches to armhole and pin. Ease the sleeve cap into the armhole if necessary. Stitch with a stretch stitch and finish raw edges. Repeat for second sleeve.

Sew side seams

Fold garment with right sides together and align underarm and side seam. Pin and stitch from cuff edge through side seam to hem in one continuous seam on each side. Finish raw edges.

Prepare and attach rib cuffs and hem

Fold each rib cuff in half lengthwise (right sides out or together depending on style) and mark quarter points. With the sleeve turned right side out, invert the cuff so it fits into the sleeve opening, aligning quarter points. Pin and stitch with a stretch stitch. Attach hem band similarly to the bottom edge: match quarter points, stretch slightly as you pin, and stitch.

Attach collar (if band collar)

If using a band collar, sew the collar short ends together to form a ring. Press seam allowance to one side. With the garment right side out, pin collar to neckline edge, matching center back. Stretch rib slightly to fit and stitch in place. Finish seam allowance.

Install zipper

With zipper open, place one zipper tape along the right front edge (wrong side of zipper to right side of fabric), aligning top stops with the neckline edge. Use pins or basting to secure and stitch close to zipper teeth with a zipper foot. Repeat with the left zipper tape on the opposite front edge, ensuring both sides sit even and the garment front aligns when zipped. If a separating zipper is used, attach bottom stops or reinforce with bartack or bar tacks at base.

Topstitch and finish

Topstitch along zipper edges (optional) for a clean look, about 2–3 mm from the zipper. Press seams gently. Trim any loose threads and finish all seam allowances. Attach label inside back neckline.

Add hood (optional)

If adding a hood, cut hood pieces from fleece and a lining if desired. Sew hood center seam, then attach hood to neckline before sewing collar band (if collar used). If adding a drawcord, create a channel in the hood edge or collar, insert drawcord using a safety pin, and fix cord ends.

Apply reinforcement and finishing touches

Reinforce zipper ends and stress points with bartacks or small rectangles of interfacing. Use matching thread to cover visible stitches and press the sweatshirt lightly to set seams. Inspect and make any small adjustments for fit and symmetry.

Try the sweatshirt on or use a dress form to check fit. Make minor alterations (take in side seams, shorten sleeves) if needed. Clean up work area and label the garment with size/brand. Pack or hang the finished zipped sweatshirt.