Heat a large heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter. When butter melts and begins to foam, add the finely diced onion, carrot, and celery. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft and translucent, about 6–8 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook 30–60 seconds until fragrant.

Brown cured meat

Add the finely chopped pancetta or bacon and cook, stirring, until it releases fat and begins to brown, about 4 minutes.

Brown ground meats

Increase heat to medium-high. Add the ground beef and ground pork in a single layer; do not overcrowd. Let the meat brown without stirring for 2–3 minutes, then break up with a wooden spoon and continue to cook until no pink remains and liquid has mostly evaporated, about 6–8 minutes total. Season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper as it cooks.

Tomato base

Push the meat to the side and stir in 2 tablespoons tomato paste. Cook the paste for 2 minutes, stirring, until it darkens slightly to remove raw flavor. Deglaze the pan with 1/2 cup dry white wine, scraping up browned bits; let the wine reduce by half, about 2–3 minutes.

Simmer the ragù

Add the crushed plum tomatoes (28 oz), 1 cup stock, 1/2 cup whole milk, bay leaf, 2 thyme sprigs, 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, and 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar. Stir to combine, bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to low so the sauce barely bubbles. Partially cover and simmer gently for 1.25–1.5 hours, stirring every 15 minutes. If the sauce thickens too much, add up to 1/2 cup water or stock. Taste and adjust salt and pepper as needed.

Finish ragù

About 10 minutes before serving, remove the bay leaf and thyme sprigs. Stir in 1 tablespoon butter to add gloss and richness. Keep the ragù warm over the lowest heat while you cook the pasta.

Pappardelle & Finishing

Cook pasta

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil (about 4–6 quarts water, generously salted). Add 12 oz dried pappardelle and cook until just al dente according to package instructions, usually 7–9 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Reserve 1 cup of pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta quickly.

Combine pasta and ragù

Add the drained pappardelle directly to the simmering ragù. Toss gently to combine over low heat. Add reserved pasta water 1/4 cup at a time as needed to loosen the sauce and help it cling to the pasta; you may not need the full cup. Stir in 1 tablespoon unsalted butter and 3/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Toss until the cheese melts and the sauce emulsifies into a glossy coating on the pasta, about 1–2 minutes. If the sauce seems dry, add another splash of pasta water.

Plate and garnish

Divide the pappardelle bolognese among warmed bowls. Finish each portion with an extra sprinkle of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano to taste, a drizzle of 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, chopped fresh parsley if using, and a generous crack of freshly ground black pepper (about 1/4–1/2 teaspoon per serving). Serve immediately.