Mushroom Éclair Recipe

Prepare and bake choux

Preheat oven to 200°C (400°F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly brush with neutral oil. In a small saucepan combine 3 tbs water, 3 tbs whole milk, 2 tbs unsalted butter and 1/4 tsp salt. Bring to a rolling boil over medium heat. Remove from heat and immediately add 1 tbs flour all at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a smooth dough and pulls away from the sides (about 1 minute). Return to low heat for 30 seconds while stirring to dry the dough slightly. Transfer dough to a bowl and let cool 2–3 minutes. Beat in eggs, one at a time, fully incorporating before adding the next; the final dough should be glossy and pipeable but hold its shape. Fit a piping bag with a plain round tip (10–12 mm) and pipe 8–10 cm long logs, leaving space between. Optionally score a shallow line along each to allow even expansion. Bake at 200°C (400°F) for 12 minutes, then without opening the oven reduce temp to 175°C (350°F) and bake another 10–12 minutes until deep golden and puffed. Remove and cool on a rack. If desired, brush lightly with melted butter for sheen.

While the choux bakes, make quick pickled shimeji. In a small saucepan combine 3 tbs rice vinegar, 3 tbs water, 1/2 tsp sugar, 1/4 tsp salt and a pinch of white pepper. Warm gently until sugar and salt dissolve, then remove from heat. Add the trimmed shimeji clusters (150 g) to a heatproof bowl or jar and pour the warm pickling liquid over them. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 20 minutes (can be made several hours ahead). Drain well before assembling; reserve a teaspoon of pickling liquid to moisten filling if needed.

Prepare enoki by trimming root end and separating into small 2–3 strand bundles (150 g total). Toss gently with 1 tsp olive oil, 1/2 tsp soy sauce and a pinch of black pepper. Heat a cast-iron skillet or grill pan over high heat until very hot and almost smoking. Grill enoki bundles in batches, pressing lightly, for 20–40 seconds per side until they develop light char marks but remain tender. Remove and keep warm. Alternatively, you can briefly torch them for a smoky flavor.

Make the savory hazelnut duxelles. In a skillet melt 1 tbs unsalted butter over medium heat. Add 1 finely minced shallot and sweat until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add 150 g finely chopped cremini mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they release their moisture and it evaporates, about 7–9 minutes. Increase heat slightly and add 1 tbs dry white wine to deglaze; cook until liquid is reduced. Stir in 2 tbs heavy cream and cook 1–2 minutes until slightly thickened. Remove from heat and stir in 30 g finely toasted chopped hazelnuts, 1/2 tsp chopped fresh thyme, 1/4 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning. If mixture seems dry, add up to 1 tsp reserved pickling liquid to achieve a spreadable consistency. Let cool to room temperature.

Split the cooled éclair shells horizontally (or pipe a small hole into the side and remove some interior if preferred). Spread or pipe approximately 1 tbsp of the hazelnut duxelles into each bottom half or inside cavity (use all filling evenly across 8–10 shells). Arrange 2–3 pickled shimeji clusters atop the duxelles on each éclair (or tuck them inside). Top with 2–3 grilled enoki bundles per éclair, arranging for contrast and slight height. Sprinkle each with a pinch of crushed toasted hazelnuts (about 1–2 g each) and a few microgreens or chives (about 1 g each). Replace tops or leave open-faced, and serve immediately. Leftovers keep components separately in refrigerator for up to 2 days; assemble just before serving.