Handcut Pasta Recipe

Make the dough

On a clean work surface, combine 00 flour and semolina in a mound. Make a large well in the center. Crack the eggs into the well, add 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt. Using a fork, gently whisk the eggs while gradually incorporating flour from the inside of the well. Continue until a shaggy dough forms. If dough feels too dry, add up to 1 tablespoon water; if too wet, incorporate a little more flour.

Knead

Knead the dough by hand for 8–10 minutes until smooth, elastic and slightly tacky. Form into a ball, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes to 1 hour to relax the gluten.

Roll and handcut

Divide dough into 4 pieces. Working with one piece at a time and keeping the others covered, flatten with your palm and roll with a rolling pin to about 1/16" thick (or to desired thinness). Dust lightly with semolina if sticky. Fold loosely into thirds or roll up, and using a sharp knife cut into 3/8–1/2" wide ribbons for pappardelle-style or into narrower strips for tagliatelle. Unfold strips and spread on a floured tray. Let dry lightly while you finish the ragu. Reserve about 1.5–2 cups of the cut pasta per person (adjust quantity in servings).

Brown the venison

Pat venison pieces dry and season lightly with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter over medium-high heat until shimmering. In batches to avoid crowding, brown the venison on all sides until well caramelized, about 4–6 minutes per batch. Remove browned meat to a plate and set aside.

Sweat the vegetables

Reduce heat to medium, add the diced onion, carrot and celery to the pot with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to color, about 6–8 minutes. Add the minced garlic and tomato paste and cook 1–2 minutes, stirring, until the paste darkens slightly and becomes fragrant.

Deglaze and simmer

Pour in the red wine to deglaze, scraping any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Let wine reduce by about half (3–4 minutes). Return the venison to the pot, add crushed tomatoes, beef/venison stock, thyme, rosemary, bay leaf, brown sugar, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, 3/4 teaspoon pepper and red pepper flakes. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to low.

Braise

Cover partially and simmer very gently for 1.5–2 hours, stirring occasionally, until venison is fork-tender and sauce has thickened. If sauce reduces too much, add a splash of stock or water. Taste and adjust seasoning near the end of cooking.

Shred and finish

Remove herb stems and bay leaf. Transfer venison pieces to a cutting board and shred or chop coarsely with two forks, then return shredded meat to pot. Stir in 1 tablespoon butter and 1/2 cup grated parmigiano to enrich the sauce (reserve remaining cheese for plating). Keep warm over the lowest heat setting.

Boil pasta

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Add the handcut pasta in batches; fresh pasta cooks quickly — 2 to 4 minutes depending on thickness. Stir gently to prevent sticking. Test for doneness: pasta should be al dente.

Dress pasta with ragu

Using tongs, transfer pasta directly from the pot to the warm ragu, reserving 1 cup of pasta cooking water. Toss pasta in the ragu over low heat for 1–2 minutes so the sauce coats the noodles. Add small amounts of reserved pasta water as needed to loosen and emulsify the sauce and ensure glossy coating.

Finish and plate

Stir in remaining 1/4 to 1/2 cup grated parmigiano and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley into the pasta and ragu. Adjust seasoning with coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Divide among warmed plates and sprinkle additional parmigiano and parsley. Serve immediately.