I. Mawby 'sex'. Recipe

Boil pasta

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 tablespoon of sea salt. Add the 12 oz of dry spaghetti and cook, stirring occasionally, until just al dente according to package instructions (usually 8–10 minutes). Reserve 1 1/2 cups of the pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta and set aside.

Infuse oil

While the pasta cooks, heat 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the 4 sliced garlic cloves and 1 teaspoon red chili flakes. Cook gently, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant and lightly golden but not browned, about 2–3 minutes. If using anchovies, add the 2 chopped anchovy fillets now and stir until they dissolve into the oil, about 1 minute.

Combine pasta and sauce

Add the drained hot spaghetti to the skillet with the garlic-chili oil. Toss to coat. Add about 1/2 cup of the reserved pasta water and 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Use tongs to toss and gently agitate the pasta so the starch in the water emulsifies with the oil, creating a silky sauce. If the pasta seems dry, add more reserved pasta water a few tablespoons at a time until the desired consistency is reached.

Finish with cheese and herbs

Remove the skillet from the heat. Add 1 cup grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan, 1 tablespoon lemon zest, and 1 cup chopped parsley. Toss vigorously — the cheese will further thicken and cling to the pasta, aided by the starchy water. If needed, add up to 1/2 cup more reserved pasta water to achieve a glossy sauce. Season with 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and additional salt to taste (remember the cheese is salty).

If using cherry tomatoes, toss them in at the same time you add the drained pasta so they warm slightly but keep their shape. For toasted breadcrumbs, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat and toast 1/2 cup breadcrumbs until golden, about 3–4 minutes, stirring — sprinkle over plated portions. Serve immediately.