Remove stems from dried chilies and place in hot water to soak for 20–30 minutes until softened. If using dried very-hot chilies, keep seeds to preserve spiciness. Drain and reserve soaking liquid (can thin paste if needed).

Prepare fresh aromatics

Peel shallots and garlic. Trim and slice the white part of lemongrass thinly. Peel and chop galangal and turmeric into small pieces. If using candlenuts substitute, roughly chop.

Blend into smooth paste

In a food processor or blender, combine drained dried chilies, fresh red chilies, shallots, garlic, galangal, turmeric, lemongrass, candlenuts, ground coriander and cumin. Add 1–2 tbs of the reserved chili soaking liquid or water to help blending. Process to a smooth, slightly wet paste. Scrape down sides as needed. The paste should be smooth enough to fry; if too thick add 1 tbs water.

Brown the Beef and Fry the Paste

Sear beef

Heat 1 tbs neutral oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. In two batches, sear beef cubes until browned on all sides (2–3 minutes per side). Remove and set aside. Searing is to develop flavor; internal doneness will be achieved during long simmering.

Fry the spice paste

Lower heat to medium. Add remaining 2 tbs oil to the pot. Add the blended spice paste and stir-fry, pressing it against the bottom occasionally, for 6–8 minutes until the raw smell disappears and the paste darkens slightly. Stir constantly to avoid burning; reduce heat if necessary.

Toast aromatics into paste

Add torn kaffir lime leaves, optional bay leaves and the tied turmeric/pandan leaves (if using) to the paste. Continue frying for 2–3 minutes to bloom the aromatics into the paste.

Combine, Simmer and Reduce

Add beef back and liquids

Return the seared beef to the pot and stir to coat thoroughly with the paste. Pour in 600 ml of the coconut milk and 250 ml water, scraping up any browned bits. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat.

Initial simmer

Reduce heat to low and cover the pot partially (lid ajar) to allow steam to escape. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, for about 1 hour. Check and skim off any excess fat that rises to the surface if desired.

Add seasonings

After the first hour, stir in palm sugar, tamarind water and 1.5 tsp of the salt. Taste a small piece of beef; because spiciness cannot be reduced, do not alter chili levels. Adjust salt gradually (use remaining 1 tsp later as needed).

Add kerisik and remaining coconut milk

Pour the remaining 200 ml coconut milk and add the toasted desiccated coconut (kerisik). Stir to combine. Continue to simmer uncovered on low heat so the liquid reduces and the oil separates and becomes dark and glossy. This stage can take 45–60 minutes. Stir more frequently toward the end to prevent scorching.

Reduce to paste-like consistency

As the liquid evaporates and the sauce thickens, the beef will be coated in a deep brown, oil-separated paste. Continue cooking until the sauce is almost dry and the oil has fully separated, and beef is very tender when pierced (total simmer time about 1.75–2.0 hours).

Finish and Serve

Taste and finish with remaining salt as needed, keeping in mind the dish should be richly seasoned. Remove and discard bay leaves and tied leaves. If the rendang is very oily on top, gently stir to incorporate the oil back into the thick paste for presentation.

Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with a few torn kaffir lime leaves. Serve hot with steamed rice or ketupat. Rendang will continue to develop flavor overnight and can be reheated gently; it keeps well in the fridge for several days or can be frozen.