Ragu Recipe

Prepare and brown sausages

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large heavy-based skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Remove sausages from casings if you prefer a crumbled ragu (recommended) or keep whole. If removing casings: split and squeeze out meat, breaking into large pieces. Add sausage meat (or whole sausages) to the pan and brown, turning occasionally, until well caramelized, about 6–8 minutes. If using whole sausages, brown all sides then remove and slice into 1 cm rounds; return later. Transfer browned sausage to a bowl and set aside.

In the same pan, add the diced pancetta/bacon and cook until fat renders and pieces are crisp, about 4–5 minutes. Spoon off excess fat if more than 2 tablespoons remain, leaving some for flavor.

Reduce heat to medium. Add remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil if pan is dry. Add the diced onion, carrot, and celery (soffritto) to the pan with the pancetta and cook gently, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft and translucent, about 8–10 minutes.

Add the minced garlic and cook for 30–60 seconds until fragrant, taking care it does not burn.

Pour in the white wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape up browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Let the wine simmer and reduce by about half, roughly 2–3 minutes.

Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1–2 minutes to remove the raw tomato taste.

Add the crushed tomatoes and stock, stir to combine. Return the browned sausage pieces to the pan (if you left them whole, add sliced sausages now). Add oregano, thyme, bay leaf, red pepper flakes (if using), salt and black pepper.

Bring the sauce to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to low so the sauce barely bubbles. Partially cover with a lid and simmer gently for 45–60 minutes, stirring occasionally. The sauce should thicken and the flavours concentrate. If the sauce becomes too thick, add small splashes of stock or water.

Taste and adjust seasoning toward the end of cooking.

If you like a creamier finish, stir in the milk and simmer 5 minutes more. Remove bay leaf. Stir in most of the grated Sussex Charmer (reserve a little for serving). The cheese will melt and add nuttiness and a slight tang to the ragu. If you prefer a chunkier texture, dot cheese on top of the hot ragu instead of stirring through.

Stir in chopped parsley and give the sauce a final stir. Serve over freshly cooked pasta (tagliatelle, pappardelle, or rigatoni), polenta, or use as a topping for baked potatoes.

Top each portion with the reserved grated Sussex Charmer and a grind of black pepper. Serve immediately.