Gnocchi Parisienne, Brown Butter Recipe

Heat liquids and butter

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine 1 cup whole milk, 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, and 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt. Bring to a gentle simmer — small bubbles around the edge — but do not boil.

Add flour and form paste

Once simmering, remove pan from heat and add 3/4 cup sifted all-purpose flour all at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until a smooth paste (panade) forms and pulls away from the sides of the pan, about 1–2 minutes. Return to low heat for 30–60 seconds, stirring, to dry the paste slightly; you should see a thin film form on the bottom briefly.

Cool slightly and incorporate eggs

Transfer the panade to a mixing bowl or keep in the saucepan off heat to cool for 2–3 minutes so it’s warm but not hot (this prevents cooking the eggs). Beat in the eggs one at a time: add the first egg and vigorously stir until incorporated, then add the second and third, fully incorporating each before adding the next. The final batter should be smooth, glossy, and pipeable but thick enough to hold shape. If batter seems too stiff, stir in up to 1–2 tablespoons (approx. portion of the extra 1/4 cup liquid) warm milk or water to loosen slightly.

Optional cheese

Fold in 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, if using, until evenly distributed. Taste a tiny amount (after it cools) and adjust seasoning: add a pinch more salt if necessary.

Pipe or spoon gnocchi

Bring a large pot of salted water to a gentle boil (about 4–5 quarts water, salted to taste). Fit a piping bag with a plain round tip or use a sturdy resealable bag with a corner cut. Fill the bag with the choux batter. Pipe 1-inch mounds directly into the simmering water, or pipe onto a lightly oiled baking sheet in small rounds and refrigerate briefly before poaching. Work in batches so the water returns to a gentle simmer quickly.

Poach gnocchi

Poach the gnocchi in gently simmering water: they will sink then rise. After they float, cook for 2–3 minutes more to set through. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a tray lined with paper towels or a lightly oiled baking sheet. Keep warm while finishing remaining batches.

Prepare sauté pan

In a large sauté pan over medium heat, add 1 teaspoon neutral oil and 6 tablespoons unsalted butter. Melt the butter and let it foam and then subside. Continue cooking, swirling the pan occasionally, until the milk solids turn golden brown and the butter smells nutty, 3–5 minutes. Watch closely to avoid burning.

Add sage (optional)

If using sage, add the fresh leaves to the butter during the last 30–45 seconds of browning; they will crisp in the butter. Remove and transfer the leaves to a paper towel if you want them extra crisp, or leave them in the pan for serving.

Finish the sauce

Remove the pan from direct heat and stir in 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice to brighten the sauce. Season with 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt and 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, tasting and adjusting as needed. If the sauce thickens too much, add 1–2 tablespoons of warm water or reserved poaching liquid to loosen.

Toss gnocchi in brown butter

Add the poached gnocchi to the brown butter pan in batches over medium-low heat. Toss gently for 1–2 minutes, coating each piece and allowing a little surface browning to develop. Be gentle so the airy choux does not deflate. If using crisped sage, return the leaves to the pan briefly to rewarm.

Serve

Transfer the gnocchi to warmed plates or a shallow bowl. Sprinkle with 3/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and finish with a few grinds of black pepper. Serve immediately so the gnocchi remain tender and the butter sauce glossy.