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Ingredients
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Sablés Bretons (shortbread cookies)
Madeleines
Cannelés
Method
In a large bowl, beat the cold cubed butter with granulated sugar and salt until pale and slightly fluffy but still cold (use a stand mixer with paddle on low or a hand mixer). Add the egg yolks and vanilla extract (if using) and mix until combined. Sift the flour and baking powder together and fold into the butter mixture with a spatula until just incorporated; do not overwork — dough should be cohesive and slightly crumbly but coming together. If needed press gently to form a disk.
Wrap the dough disk in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (up to 48 hours). Chilling firms butter and relaxes gluten for tender shortbreads.
Preheat oven to 170°C / 340°F. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to 6 mm (1/4 inch) thickness. Stamp or cut rounds (5–7 cm / 2–2.5 inch) and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment, spacing about 3 cm (1 inch) apart. Return cut cookies to fridge for 10–15 minutes if they have softened.
Bake for 12–15 minutes until edges are lightly golden but centers remain pale. Rotate tray halfway for even baking. Remove to a rack to cool completely.
Optionally dust with a little powdered sugar before serving. Store in an airtight container up to 5 days.
Madeleines
Prepare butter and pans
Melt the butter and set aside to cool to warm (not hot). Generously butter madeleine molds and place in the refrigerator to firm the butter coating.
Make batter
In a heatproof bowl, whisk the eggs and granulated sugar together. Place over a simmering pot of water (double boiler) and whisk constantly until the mixture reaches 38–40°C (100–105°F) and sugar has dissolved (about 3–4 minutes). Remove from heat and continue whisking until slightly thickened and airy. Fold in vanilla extract and lemon zest, then gently fold in sifted flour and baking powder in two additions, taking care not to deflate the batter. Fold in the cooled melted butter in a steady stream until just incorporated.
Chill batter
Cover the batter and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (2–24 hours is common). Chilling helps the characteristic hump develop.
Bake
Preheat oven to 220°C / 425°F. Spoon or pipe batter into cold, buttered molds filling each about 3/4 full. Bake at 220°C for 4 minutes, then lower temperature to 180°C / 350°F and bake another 4–6 minutes until edges are golden and centers spring back. Total bake ~8–10 minutes depending on size.
Unmold and cool
Turn madeleines out onto a rack immediately and cool slightly. Dust with powdered sugar if desired. Best eaten the same day but keep in an airtight tin up to 2 days.
Cannelés
Make batter
Bring the milk, butter, and scraped vanilla bean (or vanilla extract) to a simmer in a saucepan, then remove from heat and let steep 10–15 minutes off heat if using bean. In a bowl, whisk together sugar, flour and a pinch of salt. In a separate bowl whisk the eggs and extra yolk lightly then pour the warm milk gradually into the eggs while whisking to temper. Combine wet and dry ingredients until smooth, then stir in rum if using. Strain the batter through a fine sieve to remove lumps and any vanilla pod bits. Let the batter cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate overnight (12–24 hours) — this resting is traditional and produces the best texture.
Prepare molds
Preheat oven to 230°C / 450°F. If using silicone or nontraditional molds, brush with a thin film of beeswax mixed with a little melted butter or lightly oil the molds. If using traditional copper molds, lightly grease. Bring molds to room temp before filling (cold molds can cause sticking).
Fill and bake
Give the rested batter a gentle stir (do not overmix). Fill molds nearly to the top (leave about 2–3 mm). Place molds on a baking sheet and bake at 230°C for 15 minutes to form a dark crust, then reduce oven to 180°C / 350°F and continue baking 30–40 minutes until deep mahogany color and caramelized exterior. Baking time varies by mold size and material; smaller molds need less time. If using silicone, color may be paler — extend time carefully to avoid burning.
Unmold and cool
Allow cannelés to rest in the molds 5–10 minutes, then carefully invert onto a rack to cool. The interior should be custardy and the exterior deeply caramelized. Serve at room temperature; they are best the day of baking but keep in an airtight container up to 2 days.