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Ingredients
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Pasta
Cheese Sauce (Trois Fromage)
Topping (optional)
Method
Pasta
- 1
Boil pasta
Bring 6 quarts of water to a rolling boil in a large pot. Add 2 tablespoons kosher salt. Add 1 lb rigatoni and cook until very al dente — about 1–2 minutes less than package instructions (typically 9–11 minutes). Reserve 1 cup of pasta cooking water, then drain rigatoni and set aside.
Cheese Sauce (Trois Fromage)
- 2
Make roux
In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, melt 4 tablespoons unsalted butter. Add 1.25 tablespoons all-purpose flour and whisk continuously for 1.5–2 minutes until the raw flour smell cooks out and mixture is pale and bubbling but not browned.
- 3
Add dairy
Gradually whisk in 3 cups whole milk and 1/2 cup heavy cream, adding a little at a time to avoid lumps. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to a gentle simmer, whisking often, until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5–7 minutes.
- 4
Season
Lower heat to medium-low. Whisk in 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg, and 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
- 5
Add cheeses
Remove the béchamel from the heat. Stir in 1 cup grated gruyère and 1 cup grated sharp cheddar in two additions, stirring until each addition melts into a smooth sauce. Finally stir in 1/2 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. If sauce is too thick, whisk in up to 1/2 cup reserved pasta water, a few tablespoons at a time, until desired consistency is reached.
- 6
Combine with pasta
Add the drained rigatoni to the cheese sauce and gently fold to coat, using a spatula to ensure all pasta is covered. If needed loosen with more reserved pasta water to create a silky sauce that clings to the rigatoni.
Topping (optional) and Finish
- 7
Prepare topping
Preheat broiler to high if you plan to brown the top. In a small bowl combine 3/4 cup panko breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoons melted butter, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley, and 2 tablespoons extra Parmigiano-Reggiano. Toss to coat.
- 8
Assemble and brown (optional)
Transfer sauced rigatoni to a 9x13-inch or similarly sized ovenproof baking dish. Evenly sprinkle the panko-Parmesan mixture over the top. Place under the preheated broiler about 6 inches from heat and broil 2–4 minutes, watching closely, until topping is golden brown. Alternatively, bake at 375°F (190°C) for 12–15 minutes until bubbly and browned. Remove from oven and let rest 5 minutes.
- 9
Serve
Garnish with a light sprinkle of additional chopped parsley or Parmigiano-Reggiano if desired. Serve warm.