Pain Au Lait Recipe

Activate yeast (if using active dry)

If you used active dry yeast instead of instant, dissolve 2.25 tsp yeast with 1 tsp sugar in 1/4 cup of the warmed milk and let sit 5–10 minutes until foamy. If using instant yeast, skip this step and mix yeast directly into the flour.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or large bowl if mixing by hand), combine 3.5 cups flour, 2.25 tsp instant yeast (or the activated mixture), 1/4 cup sugar and 1 tsp salt. Stir to combine.

Whisk together 1 cup warmed whole milk (100–105°F / 38–40°C), 1/4 cup cold whole milk and 2 large eggs. With the mixer running on low, gradually add the milk/egg mixture to the dry ingredients until a shaggy dough forms.

Switch to the dough hook (if using a stand mixer). Add the 6 tbsp softened unsalted butter, one or two pieces at a time, and knead on medium speed for 6–8 minutes until the dough is smooth, slightly sticky but elastic and passes a windowpane (thin stretch) test. If kneading by hand, knead on a lightly floured surface about 10–12 minutes, incorporating the butter gradually.

Form the dough into a ball and place in a lightly greased bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap or a damp towel and let rise at warm room temperature (75–80°F / 24–27°C) until doubled in size, about 60–90 minutes. For a more developed flavor, refrigerate and do a slow overnight rise (8–12 hours).

Gently deflate the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide the dough into 10–12 equal pieces (for dinner-roll-size pains au lait) or 6–8 for larger brioche buns. For 10 pieces, each will weigh roughly 70–80 g.

Shape each piece into a smooth round by cupping your hand over the dough and rolling it in a circular motion on the counter to create surface tension. Place rounds seam-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet or in buttered loaf pans spaced apart for individual buns.

Cover loosely and proof at warm room temperature until puffy and nearly doubled, 45–60 minutes. They should spring back slowly when gently pressed. While the dough proofs, preheat oven to 375°F (190°C) for the final 20 minutes of proofing.

Make the egg wash by whisking 1 egg yolk with 1 tbsp whole milk until smooth. Gently brush the tops of the proofed dough with the egg wash, taking care not to deflate them.

Place the baking sheet in the preheated oven and bake at 375°F (190°C) for 14–18 minutes for small rolls (10–12 pieces) or 18–22 minutes for larger buns, until tops are deep golden brown and internal temperature reads about 190–195°F (88–90°C). Rotate the pan halfway through baking for even color.

Remove from oven and immediately transfer the pains au lait to a wire rack to cool slightly. Brush any remaining warm butter on top if you like extra sheen. Let cool 10–15 minutes before serving warm.

To culture the cream: combine 2 cups heavy cream with 2 tbsp plain yogurt or buttermilk in a clean jar. Cover loosely (a lid placed on top but not tightened, or a tea towel) and leave at room temperature (68–75°F / 20–24°C) for 12–18 hours until it thickens slightly and smells gently tangy.

After culturing, chill the cream for at least 1 hour. Pour the cultured cream into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whip on medium-high speed until the cream separates into butter solids and buttermilk (first it will become whipped cream, then grainy, then clump). This typically takes 6–10 minutes.

Drain off the buttermilk (save for baking or drinks). Gather the butter solids into a ball and rinse under cold running water while pressing with a spatula to remove remaining buttermilk; repeat until runoff is clear to help butter keep longer.

Press the butter into a block and work in up to 1/2 tsp fine sea salt if desired. Wrap and chill. Serve slightly softened alongside warm pains au lait.

Serve the warm pain au lait with a generous smear of house-made cultured butter. Optionally, dust lightly with powdered sugar before serving.