La Gran 'romana' Recipe

Bring 4 liters of water to a rolling boil in a large pot. Add 40 g coarse salt and the bay leaves to the water. Taste — the water should be noticeably salted like the sea.

Add 400 g spaghetti and cook, stirring occasionally, until just shy of al dente (about 1–2 minutes less than package instructions). Reserve 300 ml of the starchy cooking water before draining.

Drain the pasta quickly, keeping some cooking water in the pot if you will finish the pasta there, or transfer pasta directly to the cheese wheel for finishing (see finishing step).

If using a whole Pecorino wheel, remove the top rind to create a shallow bowl about 1.5–2 cm deep and 20–25 cm across (or use a pre-prepared wheel). Warm the hollowed wheel briefly under a low oven (60–80°C) for 5–8 minutes or by pouring a ladle of hot pasta water into it and swirling to warm the interior. The goal is to slightly soften the cheese for easier melting — do not overheat or melt through the rind.

If you prefer to finish in a pan, grate 80 g Pecorino Romano and 80 g Parmigiano-Reggiano and mix them; set aside. Keep the wheel top nearby for serving if presenting on the wheel.

In a large sauté pan over medium heat, melt 60 g unsalted butter until foaming. Add 2 tablespoons freshly cracked black pepper and toast gently for 30–45 seconds to release aroma. Do not let the pepper burn.

Add the drained pasta to the pan with the butter and pepper. Toss to coat the strands.

Gradually add 150–200 ml of the reserved hot pasta water while tossing to create a glossy emulsion. Turn heat to low. Add the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino mixture in two batches, tossing vigorously between additions so the cheese melts into the starchy water to form a creamy sauce. Add more reserved water as needed — the sauce should cling to the pasta without being watery.

Taste and adjust seasoning with up to 1 tsp salt, keeping in mind both cheeses are salty. If desired, stir in 1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil for extra sheen.

If finishing in the warm cheese wheel: transfer the sauced spaghetti into the warmed Pecorino wheel. Using tongs, toss and scrape the bottom and sides so hot pasta melts the inner cheese and the cheese integrates into the sauce. Continue tossing for 1–2 minutes until the sauce is creamy and glossy and the inner rim of cheese is incorporated.

If finishing in a pan: transfer the sauced spaghetti to a warmed shallow bowl or serving platter; immediately scrape 1–2 tablespoons of the inner Pecorino from the warmed wheel (or sprinkle an additional 30–40 g grated Pecorino) over the pasta and toss to combine, allowing residual heat to melt the cheese into the sauce.

Plate or mound the pasta back into the wheel (if using) or on warmed plates. Finish with an extra dusting of finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (optional), a final crack of black pepper (about 1 tsp), and garnish with basil sprigs or microgreens if using.

Check texture — pasta should be al dente with a smooth, clingy cheese sauce. If sauce seems too thick, add a splash of reserved pasta water and toss to loosen. If too thin, continue tossing off heat until it binds.

Serve immediately from the Pecorino wheel for table-side theater, encouraging guests to twist portions from the wheel so each serving picks up melted cheese from the rim.