In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Add diced onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until translucent and soft, about 5–6 minutes. Add minced garlic and cook 30 seconds until fragrant.

Make roux and base

Sprinkle the flour over the softened onions and stir constantly for 1 minute to cook the flour. Slowly whisk in whole milk and half-and-half, smoothing any lumps, and bring the mixture to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat until slightly thickened, about 3–4 minutes.

Add cheeses and seasonings

Reduce heat to low. Add cream cheese in pieces and whisk until mostly incorporated. Gradually add the shredded cheddar and monterey jack, stirring constantly and allowing each addition to melt before adding more to prevent graininess. Stir in cumin, smoked paprika, black pepper, and 1 tsp kosher salt. If mixture is too thick, add up to 2 tablespoons more milk to reach desired dipping consistency.

Finish queso

Stir in chopped pickled jalapeños and 1 tablespoon of the jalapeño brine, plus drained diced tomatoes with chiles. Taste and adjust seasoning with additional salt, black pepper, and hot sauce if desired. Remove from heat and stir in lime juice and half of the chopped cilantro. Keep warm over the lowest heat or transfer to a small slow cooker on warm to serve.

Reheat/serve notes

If queso thickens while sitting, thin with a splash of milk and rewarm gently, stirring until smooth. Garnish with remaining cilantro before serving.

House-Made Tortilla Chips

Frying method

Heat vegetable oil in a heavy skillet or deep pot to 350°F (175°C). Cut tortillas into 6–8 wedges. Working in batches, fry tortilla wedges for 45–60 seconds per side until crisp and lightly golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Immediately sprinkle with kosher salt and optional granulated garlic.

Baking method (alternative)

Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Stack tortillas and cut into wedges. Toss wedges lightly with 2–3 tablespoons oil (reserve remaining oil) so they are lightly coated, spread in a single layer on a baking sheet, and bake 8–12 minutes, flipping once, until crisp and edges are golden. Remove and season with salt and optional granulated garlic.

Serve

Transfer warm chips to a serving basket or bowl alongside the queso dip. Provide a spoon for the queso and garnish dip with extra chopped cilantro and a few chopped pickled jalapeños if desired.