Refried Beans Recipe

Soak the beans

Rinse the dried pinto beans under cold water, removing any debris or damaged beans. Place beans in a large bowl or pot and cover with 8 cups of cold water. Soak overnight (8–12 hours) at room temperature, or use the quick-soak method: bring beans and water to a boil for 2 minutes, remove from heat, cover, and let sit for 1 hour. Drain and rinse the soaked beans.

Cook the beans

Transfer the drained beans to a large heavy-bottomed pot or pressure cooker. Add 8 cups fresh water (or 4 cups water + 4 cups low-sodium stock for more flavor), bay leaves, and 1 teaspoon of the kosher salt. If using a pressure cooker, cook on high pressure for 25–30 minutes and allow natural release; if using stovetop, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook partially covered until beans are tender, 1.5–2 hours, adding more water as needed to keep beans submerged. Remove bay leaves when beans are tender. Taste and adjust seasoning; add another 1–2 teaspoons kosher salt if needed.

Sauté aromatics

While beans are finishing, heat 6 tablespoons vegetable oil and 2 tablespoons butter (or replace butter with 2 tablespoons lard for more authentic richness) in a large heavy skillet or wide sauté pan over medium heat until shimmering. Add the chopped yellow onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to brown, about 8–10 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook 30–60 seconds until fragrant. Stir in the ground cumin and cook another 20–30 seconds to bloom the spice.

Mash and fry the beans

Reserve about 1 to 1 1/2 cups of the cooking liquid from the cooked beans. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the beans to the skillet with the sautéed aromatics. Add 1/2 to 1 cup of the reserved cooking liquid (start with less) and begin mashing the beans directly in the skillet using a potato masher or the back of a sturdy spoon until you reach your desired texture (smooth or slightly chunky). Continue to cook the beans over medium-low heat, adding more reserved liquid as needed to reach a creamy, spreadable consistency. Fry the mashed beans, stirring frequently, for 8–12 minutes so they thicken and develop flavor. Taste and add remaining salt (up to the total listed) and black pepper as needed. If beans seem dry or overly thick, stir in additional stock or cooking liquid 2 tablespoons at a time.

Finish and hold for catering

For catering service, transfer the beans to holding pans and keep warm in a low oven (200°F / 95°C) or steam table. Stir in remaining butter or 2 tablespoons lard (if using) for sheen and richer flavor just before service. Sprinkle chopped cilantro over the top if desired and serve with lime wedges on the side. If beans will be held for more than 2 hours, keep them slightly looser than final desired thickness so they can be reheated and reduced to the correct consistency. Stir occasionally and add warm stock if they dry out.

Make-ahead and reheating

Beans can be made 24–48 hours ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container. To reheat for catering, warm in a saucepan over low heat with 1/4–1/2 cup stock per quart of beans, stirring frequently, or reheat in a steam table / hotel pan with occasional stirring. Adjust seasoning and finish with a pat of butter or a drizzle of oil before serving.