All’ Amatriciana Recipe

Prepare guanciale

Cut the guanciale into 1/4"–1/2" strips or small lardons. This size renders evenly and gives both crisp edges and soft rendered fat.

In a large skillet or sauté pan over medium heat, add the guanciale and the 1 tablespoon olive oil. The oil is just to help start rendering if the guanciale is leaner; if very fatty it's optional. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat has rendered and the edges are crisp and browned, about 8–10 minutes. Reduce heat if browning too quickly.

If using, remove excess fat so about 2–3 tablespoons remain in the pan (reserve any extra fat for another use); leave the crisped guanciale in the pan. If using onion and/or garlic: add the sliced onion and the smashed garlic clove to the pan and sweat gently over medium-low heat until translucent and soft, about 5–6 minutes. Remove and discard the garlic clove once it has flavored the oil (optional).

Increase heat to medium-high and add the tablespoon of white wine to deglaze the pan, scraping any browned bits off the bottom. Let the wine reduce by half, about 1–2 minutes.

Stir in the tomato paste and cook 30–45 seconds to take off the raw edge. Add the crushed tomatoes and red pepper flakes, stir to combine, and bring to a gentle simmer. Reduce heat to maintain a steady gentle simmer and cook until the sauce thickens slightly and the flavors concentrate, about 12–15 minutes. Taste and season with up to 1 teaspoon salt, keeping in mind guanciale and Pecorino add saltiness. If sauce tastes too acidic, simmer a few minutes longer.

When the sauce is nearly ready and just thickened, remove from heat and keep warm. Stir in the crisped guanciale (or reserve some for garnish) and any rendered fat to incorporate flavor into the sauce.

Bring a large pot of water to a vigorous boil. Add 1 tablespoon salt. Add the bucatini or spaghetti and cook until just shy of al dente (about 1–2 minutes less than package instructions); cooking time varies but target 2–3 minutes before fully tender. Reserve at least 1 cup of the pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta.

Return the pan with the sauce to medium heat. Add the drained pasta directly to the skillet, tossing to coat. If the sauce seems tight or too thick, add pasta cooking water in 1/4-cup increments, stirring and tossing, until the sauce emulsifies and clings to the pasta. Use roughly 1/2 to 3/4 cup reserved water, or more as needed.

Remove the pan from heat. Sprinkle in about 3/4 cup of the finely grated Pecorino Romano and a good crack of freshly ground black pepper. Toss vigorously or use tongs to combine — the heat and residual starch in the water will help create a silky sauce. If needed, add a splash more pasta water to reach a creamy consistency.

Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately, dividing among 4 plates. Garnish each portion with the remaining Pecorino and an extra grind of black pepper. If you reserved some crisped guanciale, sprinkle it on top for texture.