Chill the bowl, blade, and meat briefly in the freezer for 10–15 minutes so the meat and fat stay firm through grinding. Keep a bowl of ice water nearby to refresh the mix if it warms.

Cut the pork shoulder and pork fat into 1-inch cubes. Place cubes on a tray and return to the refrigerator or freezer until very cold but not frozen solid (about 15–30 minutes).

Combine salt, black pepper, nutmeg, crushed fennel (if using), and minced garlic in a small bowl and mix to make the seasoning blend.

Grinding and mixing

Fit your grinder with a coarse grind plate. Grind the cold pork and fat through the grinder into a chilled mixing bowl. If you have a food processor, pulse in small batches, keeping the meat cold.

Add the seasoning blend to the ground meat. Pour in the cold water and add a handful of ice (or a few tablespoons) if the meat begins to warm. Mix with clean hands or a paddle until the seasonings are evenly distributed and the mixture becomes sticky and tacky (about 2–3 minutes). Do not overwork to avoid a dense texture.

Taste test: pinch off a small portion of the raw mixture, cook in a skillet to an internal temp of 160°F (71°C), and taste for seasoning. Adjust salt/pepper if necessary, then mix again briefly.

Preparing casings

Soak natural hog casings in warm water for 30 minutes, then flush water through them to remove salt. Rinse both inside and out under running cold water. Keep casings in a bowl of clean water until ready to use so they remain pliable.

Attach the sausage-stuffing tube to your grinder or stuffer. Slide one end of the prepared casing onto the tube, leaving a 4–6 inch tail. Tie a knot at the free end of the casing or hold it closed with a clip.

Filling and linking sausages

Feed the seasoned meat into the stuffer/grinder hopper and begin filling the casing slowly, supporting the filled casing with your hand. Fill until the casing is firm but not overstuffed. Leave a little slack to twist into links.

Decide portion size: for a 1/2 lb portion, weigh out ~8 oz segments; for 1 lb portions, weigh ~16 oz segments. If making links, twist every 4–5 inches for 1/2 lb or every 8–10 inches for 1 lb, alternating twist direction between links to keep them secure.

Prick any large visible air pockets with a sanitized needle to release trapped air, then gently press along the casing to smooth them out.

Cooking and finishing

To cook fresh sausages: poach first for even cooking by simmering gently in water or beer. Place sausages in a single layer in a pan, cover with water (or half water/half beer) by about 1/2 inch, bring to a gentle simmer, and cook until internal temperature reaches 150°F (65°C) (about 10–12 minutes for 1/2 lb links).

Finish by patting sausages dry and searing: heat 1 tbsp neutral oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the sausages, turning occasionally, until evenly browned and internal temperature is 160°F (71°C), about 4–6 minutes.

Alternatively, grill over medium heat, turning frequently, until browned and cooked through (160°F), about 8–12 minutes depending on size.

Serve hot with optional coarse mustard or BBQ sauce. For menu portions: weigh and portion sausages to 1/2 lb (8 oz) or 1 lb (16 oz) before serving. Keep any unused fresh sausages refrigerated and use within 2 days or freeze.