Whisk flour, sugar, salt and optional semolina together in a bowl. Cut in cold butter with a pastry cutter or fingertips until mixture resembles coarse crumbs.

Stir egg yolk, Marsala wine and vinegar together in a small bowl. Add liquid to flour mixture and knead gently in bowl until dough comes together. If too dry, add up to 1 tbs extra wine or water; if too sticky, dust with a little flour.

Transfer dough to lightly floured surface and knead 1–2 minutes until smooth. Flatten into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least 30 minutes (up to 2 hours).

Roll and Cut

Divide chilled dough into 2 pieces. Roll one piece at a time on a floured surface very thin (about 1–1.5 mm). Using a 3.5–4 inch round cutter (or a glass), cut circles. Re-roll scraps and repeat until you have enough for 12 mini shells (you will need 24 circles if making double-layered shells, but for cannoli wrap each circle around a small cannoli tube).

Wrap each circle around a greased 3/4-inch diameter mini cannoli tube or small metal cylinder, overlapping edges and sealing with a brush of egg white. Ensure seam is well sealed so dough doesn't open while frying. Trim excess dough with a knife so ends are tidy.

Fry Shells

Heat oil or lard in a deep heavy pot to 350°F (175°C). Fry 3–4 shells at a time, turning occasionally, until golden brown and crisp, 1.5–3 minutes. Remove with tongs and place on paper towels to drain. Allow shells to cool slightly (~10 minutes) then carefully slide shells off the tubes. If any shells soften, return to hot oil for a few seconds to re-crisp.

Filling

Drain ricotta very well: line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth and set over a bowl in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour (or press gently to remove excess whey). Well-drained ricotta is key to a firm, non-watery filling.

Place drained ricotta in a bowl and whisk or beat briefly to smooth. Add powdered sugar, vanilla and orange zest (if using). Taste and adjust sweetness. If you prefer a looser filling, whisk in heavy cream 1 tablespoon at a time until desired consistency is reached.

Fold in mini chocolate chips. If you like chips on the ends, reserve about 2 tbsp of chips for rolling ends.

Chill filling in refrigerator at least 30 minutes to firm slightly before piping.

Assembly & Finish

Fit a piping bag with a medium plain round tip (or cut the corner) and fill with the chilled ricotta filling. Alternatively use a small spoon for filling.

Pipe or spoon filling into each cooled shell from one end to the other, filling fully but not overstuffing. Smooth ends with a small offset spatula or knife.

Optional: Dip the ends of each filled cannoli into reserved chocolate chips or chopped pistachios. Press gently so they adhere.

Dust all mini cannolis with powdered sugar just before serving. If not serving immediately, store unfilled shells in an airtight container at room temperature up to 2 days; store filled cannolis refrigerated and eat within 24 hours to preserve shell crispness.