In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 cups all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cut in the 2 tablespoons cold diced butter with a pastry cutter or two knives until mixture resembles coarse crumbs.

Add wet ingredients

Make a well in the center and add 1 egg yolk, 1/4 cup dry white wine, 1 teaspoon white vinegar and 1 tablespoon cold water. Mix with a fork until the dough comes together; if too dry add up to 1 teaspoon more water. Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead briefly (about 1 minute) until smooth. Form into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (up to overnight).

Roll and shape

After chilling, divide dough into 4 pieces and keep covered. Working with one piece at a time on a lightly floured surface, roll dough very thin (about 1/16" / 1.5 mm). Use a 4 to 4.5-inch round cutter (or an overturned ramekin) to cut circles. Brush a little water or beaten egg white on one edge, fold the circle around a cannoli tube (metal tube) overlapping edges about 1/2 inch and press to seal. Repeat until all shells are shaped. Re-roll scraps and continue.

Fry shells

Heat 3 to 4 cups vegetable oil in a heavy pot or deep fryer to 350°F (175°C). Carefully place 2–3 wrapped tubes into the oil (do not crowd). Fry shells, turning once, until evenly golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove tubes and set on paper towels to drain briefly. While still warm, gently slip the shells off the tubes by twisting; if a shell sticks, re-fry briefly 10–15 seconds. Cool shells completely on a rack. (Reserve cooled shells in an airtight container up to a day; they will soften once filled.)

Filling

Prepare ricotta

Line a fine-mesh sieve with cheesecloth or a coffee filter and place over a bowl. Spoon 2 cups ricotta into the sieve and drain in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour (or up to 8 hours) to remove excess moisture. Drainage ensures a firm filling that won't make shells soggy.

Make filling

In a chilled mixing bowl, combine the drained ricotta, 2/3 cup powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, 1 tablespoon orange zest and 1/8 teaspoon sea salt. If you prefer a lighter, creamier filling, whip 2 tablespoons heavy cream to soft peaks and fold into the ricotta mixture. Stir in 1/2 cup mini chocolate chips (reserve extra for garnish). Taste and adjust sweetness if desired. Transfer filling to a piping bag fitted with a medium round tip or to a zip-top bag and refrigerate until ready to fill.

Assembling & Finishing

Fill shells

Shortly before serving, pipe the ricotta filling into both ends of each cooled shell, pressing gently so the filling fills the center but does not overstuff and crack the shell. Fill about 2 tablespoons of filling per cannoli (adjust as shell size dictates).

Garnish and serve

Dip or sprinkle each filled end with chopped pistachios and extra mini chocolate chips as desired. Lightly dust completed cannolis with powdered sugar just before serving. Serve immediately for best contrast between crisp shell and creamy filling. If you must make ahead, keep shells and filling separate; assemble within 1 hour of serving to preserve crispness.