Carbonara Recipe

Boil water and cook pasta

Bring a large pot (at least 5–6 L) of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 tablespoon fine sea salt. Add 400 g spaghetti and cook until just shy of al dente (about 8–9 minutes for typical dried spaghetti; check package for timing). Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.

Before draining, reserve 1 cup of the starchy pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta quickly and set aside (do not rinse). Keep pasta hot.

Render the pancetta

While the pasta cooks, heat a large wide sauté pan over medium heat. Add 1 teaspoon olive oil only if your pancetta is very lean; otherwise start without oil. Add 200 g diced pancetta (or guanciale) and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat has rendered and the pieces are crisp and golden at the edges, about 6–8 minutes. Reduce heat to low and keep warm. Do not let the pancetta burn.

Prepare the egg-cheese mixture

While pancetta renders, whisk together 4 large egg yolks and 1 whole large egg in a medium bowl until smooth. Add 1 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano and 1/2 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Add 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper. Whisk until combined into a thick, creamy paste. The mixture should be loose enough to toss but not watery.

Temper the eggs and combine

With the pancetta pan off the heat (or very low), add the drained hot pasta to the pan with the rendered pancetta and toss to coat in the fat. Working quickly, pour the egg-and-cheese mixture over the hot pasta and immediately toss vigorously with tongs or a large spoon to coat each strand. Add 1/2 cup of the reserved pasta water to start and continue tossing. The residual heat will thicken the eggs into a silky sauce without scrambling them. If the sauce seems too thick or is clinging, add more reserved water a little at a time (up to the reserved 1 cup) until you reach a glossy, creamy consistency.

Taste and adjust. If it needs salt, add a small pinch (Pecorino is salty, so often none is needed). Add additional freshly ground black pepper to taste.

Serve

Divide the carbonara among 4 warm pasta bowls (serves 4). Sprinkle an extra 1/4 cup grated Pecorino or Parmigiano over the top and finish with another grind of black pepper. Serve immediately while hot and silky.

Notes: Work quickly to combine eggs and pasta to avoid scrambled eggs. Use guanciale for the most authentic flavor; pancetta or a high-quality unsmoked bacon are acceptable substitutes.