Chennai Chicken Varuval Recipe

Trim excess fat from chicken and pat dry. In a large bowl combine tamarind paste, turmeric, kosher salt, and cayenne pepper. Rub mixture all over the chicken pieces and set aside to marinate at room temperature for 20–30 minutes (or refrigerate for up to 2 hours).

Heat a small dry skillet over medium heat. Add coriander seeds, cumin seeds, black peppercorns, fennel seeds, dry red chilies, cloves, and cinnamon stick. Dry-roast, shaking the pan occasionally, until fragrant and slightly darker—about 2–3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool for 5 minutes. Grind to a fine powder using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Transfer to a bowl.

In a blender, add the sliced onion (reserve 2 tbs sliced for later crisping if desired), garlic, ginger, and chopped tomato. Pulse to a coarse-smooth paste. If the mixture is very thick, add 1–2 tbs water to help blending.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a heavy skillet or kadai over medium heat. Add the wet masala and sauté, stirring frequently, until raw smell disappears and oil starts to separate from the masala, about 8–10 minutes.

Stir in the ground spice mix and continue to cook for 2 minutes to toast the ground spices in the oil. Add the marinated chicken to the pan, turning pieces to coat thoroughly with the masala. Increase heat to medium-high and sear the chicken on all sides for 4–5 minutes, allowing some browning.

Reduce heat to medium-low, add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and curry leaves (reserve a few for garnish), cover the pan and simmer gently for 15–20 minutes, turning pieces once halfway, until the chicken is cooked through (internal temperature 74°C / 165°F) and the masala has thickened. If the mixture is too dry or sticking, add 2–3 tablespoons hot water as needed.

Uncover and increase heat to medium-high for the final 4–5 minutes to evaporate excess liquid and roast the chicken in the masala, stirring so the spice mixture coats the pieces and becomes slightly charred in spots (this creates the characteristic varuval — roasted — flavor).

Taste and adjust seasoning with additional salt and the optional 1/2 tsp sugar if the tamarind made the sauce very tangy. Squeeze in lemon juice and toss to combine.

Optional crisp curry leaves and onion

In a small skillet, heat 1 teaspoon oil over medium-high heat. Fry the reserved sliced onion until golden and crisp; remove and drain on paper towel. Quickly fry the reserved curry leaves for 10–15 seconds until crisp. Sprinkle both over the chicken just before serving.

Garnish with chopped cilantro and the fried curry leaves. Serve hot.