Rinse the octopus under cold water. In a large pot combine 2 L water, 200 ml white wine, 2 bay leaves, 1 tbs peppercorns and 1.5 tbs salt. Bring to a gentle boil. Hold the octopus by the head and dip the tentacles into boiling water three times (this helps the skin set), then fully submerge the octopus. Reduce to a simmer and cook gently, uncovered, for 35–45 minutes until the thickest part of a tentacle is tender when pierced with a knife (not mushy). Cooking time varies with size; check at 30 minutes.

When tender, remove the octopus and let cool slightly. Reserve 150 ml of the cooking liquid. Cut the tentacles into 6–8 cm pieces suitable for skewering. Mix 3 tbs olive oil, zest and juice of 1 lemon, and 2 minced garlic cloves; toss the cut octopus in this dressing and let sit 15–20 minutes to absorb flavor while you prepare the romesco and grill.

Calabrese Romesco Sauce

Prepare romesco

If using fresh tomatoes, char the tomato over an open flame or in a hot pan until skin blackens, then cool and peel. In a food processor combine roasted red peppers, cored tomato, 40 g toasted blanched almonds, 1 slice stale bread (torn), 1 tbs Calabrese chile paste or a smaller amount of nduja (to taste), 1 garlic clove, 2 tsp sherry or red wine vinegar, 1 tsp smoked paprika, 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp black pepper. Pulse to a coarse paste.

With the processor running, slowly stream in 80 ml extra-virgin olive oil until you achieve a smooth, slightly rustic emulsion. If the sauce is too thick, add up to 2–3 tbs reserved octopus cooking liquid to loosen. Taste and adjust salt, vinegar or Calabrese paste for brightness and heat. Set aside at room temperature.

Skewer & Grill

Assemble skewers

If using wooden skewers, soak them in water 30 minutes to prevent burning. Thread octopus pieces onto skewers, alternating with strips of roasted red pepper and a few olives for color and bite. Leave a little space between pieces so heat circulates. Brush each skewer lightly with 2 tbs olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt flakes.

Grill

Preheat a grill or grill pan to high (medium-high for gas). Brush grates with oil. Place skewers on the hot grill and cook 2–3 minutes per side, just until char marks develop and the octopus picks up a bit of crust — do not overcook. Total grilling time should be 6–8 minutes depending on heat and thickness.

Remove skewers and rest 2 minutes. Sprinkle chopped parsley over the skewers and drizzle a little extra-virgin olive oil or reserved octopus cooking liquid if desired.

To Serve

Spoon a generous smear of Calabrese romesco sauce onto the plate or a communal board. Arrange pulpo skewers on top. Garnish with additional roasted pepper strips and mixed olives. Serve with lemon wedges on the side for squeezing and extra romesco for dipping.