Pat the veal cubes dry with paper towels. Season evenly with 1 tsp kosher salt and 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper. Place the 1 cup of flour in a shallow bowl or tray and lightly dredge the veal pieces, shaking off excess flour. Reserve remaining flour for thickening if desired.

Brown the veal

Heat a large heavy-bottomed braising pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 2 tbs olive oil and 1 tbs butter. When shimmering, add half the veal in a single layer (do not crowd). Sear 2–3 minutes per side until deep golden; transfer to a plate. Repeat with remaining 1 tbs oil and veal, adding more butter if needed. Render and collect any fond on the bottom of the pot.

Sweat the aromatic vegetables

Reduce heat to medium. Add the diced onion, carrots and celery to the pot with a pinch of salt. If the pan is dry, add remaining 1 tbs butter. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to brown, about 6–8 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook 30–45 seconds until fragrant.

Build the braising liquid

Stir in 2 tbs tomato paste and cook 1–2 minutes to caramelize. Deglaze with 3 tbs dry white wine, scraping up browned bits. Add the crushed tomatoes, 3 cups stock, bay leaves, thyme sprigs and rosemary. Bring to a low simmer.

Return veal and braise

Nestle the seared veal back into the pot so pieces are partially submerged. Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer, then cover with a tight-fitting lid and transfer to an oven preheated to 300°F (150°C). Braise until the veal is tender and easily shredded with a fork, about 2 to 2 1/2 hours. Alternatively, simmer gently on the stovetop over very low heat for the same time.

Finish the ragout

Remove the pot from the oven. Transfer the veal to a tray and tent with foil. Strain or skim excess fat from the braising liquid if desired, then return liquid to the pot. Remove and discard bay leaves, thyme and rosemary stems. Using a wooden spoon or small whisk, mash or reduce the sauce over medium heat until it reaches a saucy consistency (about 8–10 minutes). If you want a silkier finish, stir in 2 tbs heavy cream and 1 tsp lemon zest. Taste and adjust seasoning with remaining 1/2 tsp kosher salt and black pepper as needed. Return the veal to the sauce and warm gently for 2–3 minutes to meld flavors.

Garnish & Serve

Spoon the braised heirloom veal ragout into shallow bowls or over fresh pasta, creamy polenta or mashed potatoes. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Finish with a light drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, a pinch of coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

Serve hot. Leftovers keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days; flavors improve overnight. Reheat gently on the stovetop over low heat, adding a splash of stock if needed.