Madras Cooking Sauce Recipe

Prepare onions and aromatics

Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add the finely chopped onion and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and beginning to brown, about 8–10 minutes.

Add garlic and ginger

Lower the heat slightly and add the minced garlic and grated ginger. Cook for 1–2 minutes, stirring, until fragrant but not browned.

Tomato paste and spices

Stir in the tomato paste and cook 2–3 minutes, stirring constantly, until the paste darkens slightly — this mellows acidity and builds flavor.

Add crushed tomatoes and liquid

Pour in the 28 oz crushed tomatoes and 1 cup water. Stir to combine, scraping any browned bits from the pan. Bring to a gentle simmer.

Simmer and reduce

Add 1 teaspoon sugar, 1.5 teaspoons salt, and the optional 0.5 teaspoon crushed vegetable stock cube if using. Simmer the sauce partially covered over low to medium-low heat for 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it thickens slightly.

Finish with yogurt or coconut milk

Remove the pan from heat for a minute to slightly cool. Whisk in 1/2 cup plain yogurt (or coconut milk) and 1 tablespoon lemon juice until smooth. Return to low heat and warm gently for 2–3 minutes — do not boil vigorously after adding yogurt to prevent curdling.

Measure spices

While the sauce simmers, combine the ground coriander (2 tsp), ground cumin (1.5 tsp), turmeric (1/2 tsp), fenugreek (1/4 tsp, optional), hot red chili powder (1.5 tsp or to taste), smoked paprika (1 tsp) and black pepper (1/2 tsp) in a small bowl and mix well.

Temper the ground spices

When the sauce has cooked 10–12 minutes and reduced somewhat, create a small well in the sauce and sprinkle the blended ground spices into the well. Stir thoroughly to incorporate and simmer gently 5–8 minutes so the spices bloom and the raw edge cooks off. Taste and adjust salt and chili level as needed.

Toast whole seeds and curry leaves

In a small skillet over medium heat, add 1/2 tablespoon oil (or use the pan reserved from the sauce if there is room). When hot, add mustard seeds and cumin seeds. When mustard seeds begin to pop (about 30–45 seconds), add the dried curry leaves and the slit green chili if using. Fry briefly, 20–30 seconds, until fragrant. Remove from heat to avoid burning.

Incorporate temper into sauce

Carefully transfer the tempered seeds, curry leaves, and chili into the simmering sauce and stir to combine. Simmer 1–2 minutes to meld the flavors.

Finish with butter/ghee and cilantro

Stir in 1 tablespoon butter or ghee (or oil for dairy-free) off the heat to give the sauce a glossy finish and rounded mouthfeel. Sprinkle in 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro and stir.

Adjust and store

Taste and adjust salt, lemon, or sugar as needed. Use immediately with cooked meat, tofu, vegetables, or paneer, or cool and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days (or freeze up to 3 months). Reheat gently before serving.